There is nothing better than getting little chicks. I love listening to their tiny peeps and spend hours just observing their behaviors. They are tiny, fluffy, and usually so sweet! It’s important to enjoy this stage because it doesn’t last long!

Chicks grow into chickens really fast! And if you want happy, healthy hens that will lay plenty of eggs, it’s important to understand each stage of their development and provide the right nutrition and care along the way.

Stage 1: The Chick Stage (0-6 Weeks)

Once the chicks hatch, they enter the chick stage. In these early weeks, chicks are highly dependent on their mother (or a brooder) for warmth, food, and water. During this time, proper care and nutrition are vital for healthy growth. Let me break these weeks down for you. 

Week 1: Chicks are covered in downy feathers and require a heat source. They begin to walk and peck for food. I always use the Baby Chick Care Kit to make sure all their systems get off to a strong start.

Weeks 2-3: Their feathers start to develop more, and they become more active. They begin socializing and establishing a pecking order. This can go just fine or it can get kind of nasty. It’s important to watch for injuries and treat accordingly as they figure out who will be the top hen. 

Weeks 4-6: Chicks shed their down feathers for “teenage” feathers and can regulate their body temperature better. Their diet can be supplemented with grit and more varied foods, but I do this very sparingly. Weeks 1-6, I feed my chicks chick crumble and First Peep. 

Stage 2: The Pullet Stage (6 Weeks – 6 Months)

After the chick stage, the young hens become pullets. This stage is characterized by rapid growth as they begin to mature. It’s an exciting stage because pullets typically start to develop their unique colors and patterns. It’s also during this stage where you would slowly start integrating them into your existing flock if you have one!

This transition takes a lot of patience, but I promise they will eventually all get along. If you want your chickens to be friends with you, it’s important to handle them, give them treats and spend a lot of time with them. There are so many people who don’t understand how my chickens will let me hold them, etc., but it’s because I’ve invested the time into them. And, it’s so worth it for the chicken snuggles! 

Weeks 6-12: Learning the Social Rules

Stronger social behaviors emerge as pullets establish their place in the flock. This takes some babysitting to make sure everyone can play nice. I feed them a grower feed, which supports their rapid development. But, I will say, if you integrate them into your existing flock, they end up just eating the others’ layer feed. It’s tough to separate, but don’t worry. I haven’t had any trouble!

Months 4-6: Prepping for Egg Laying

Pullets will begin the transition to layers. Their bodies prepare for egg production, and they may exhibit nesting behaviors. You will notice they start submitting to you by squatting and staying still when they’re getting ready to lay. It’s so exciting!

Stage 3: The Laying Hen Stage (6 Months & Beyond)

Once a pullet reaches around 6 months of age, she usually starts laying eggs. This is dependent on their breed and health of course.

I will never forget my first egg! It was one of the most exciting days in our backyard! I’m pretty sure the neighbors heard all about it from my excited shouts! Hahaha!

Stage 4: The Mature Hen Stage (18 Months & Beyond)

After reaching 18 months, hens are generally considered mature. They will continue to lay eggs, although production usually starts to slow down as they age. From first lay to around two years is the “prime” laying years for your hens. They will honestly lay pretty solidly through 3-4 years.

Today, I have hens who are almost 7 years old and they have slowed down and almost stopped. But, they will live out their lives in my coop. They have become my pets and I love them dearly!

However, mature hens do require more monitoring for health. Even though they slow down in the laying department, they will remain your flock MVP’s because they keep everyone in line and show the new ones the ropes. I think it’s worth holding onto them if you’re not bound by number restrictions. 

Caring for Your Hens at Every Stage

Understanding the growth stages of a hen allows poultry keepers to provide the right care and management at each phase. By understanding these developmental milestones, you can ensure your flock remains healthy and productive! Whether for eggs, companionship or both, taking care of your hens through their growth stages is worth it and beneficial for both you and your flock!

It’s spring, and for many backyard chicken keepers, that means one thing: new chicks! I usually order mine from Hoover’s Hatchery, but I’ve also hatched my own a couple of times. It’s exciting, fascinating and honestly, a little nerve-wracking! But if you’re up for the adventure, I’ll walk you through how to candle an egg and spot the signs of chick development along the way.

What is Egg Candling?

Candling is a simple method used to check if an egg is fertile and developing properly. It involves shining a bright light through the egg to see what’s going on inside without cracking it open. The term “candling” comes from the old-school practice of using candles, but a strong flashlight works just fine today.

Candling is most helpful for:

• Checking if eggs are fertile

• Monitoring chick development

• Removing eggs that aren’t progressing (so they don’t spoil and affect healthy eggs)

When to Candle Eggs During Incubation

Chick development takes about 21 days from start to hatch. Most people candle twice:

• Day 7: Check for early signs of life. A fertile egg will show a small dark spot (the embryo) with red veins branching out and a visible air sac. You might even catch a little movement! If you don’t see veins or an air sac, it’s likely the egg isn’t developing.

• Day 14: By now, a healthy chick should take up most of the egg. Look for a darker interior, less light passing through and continued movement. If it still looks clear or hasn’t changed since Day 7, the egg likely isn’t viable and should be removed.

   

These two candling sessions give you the clearest view of what’s happening inside the shell.

How to Candle an Egg Step-by-Step

Here’s how I do it at home, and it doesn’t require anything fancy:

1. Wash your hands before and after handling eggs.

2. Use a bright light source in a dark room. A strong flashlight works great!

3. Place the narrow end of the egg gently against the light.

4. Look for signs of development:

   • Infertile egg: Clear inside, no veins or dark spots.

   • Fertile egg: Dark spot (embryo) with visible red veins.

   • No change by Day 14: Could mean the chick stopped developing.

I like to number each egg and jot down what I see, just like in the photo below. It makes it so much easier to track progress throughout incubation.

Pro Tip: Always return eggs to the same position in the incubator and work quickly to preserve heat and humidity levels.

How to Tell if an Egg is Fertile vs Infertile

This is the most common question I get! If the egg is:

• Fertile: You’ll see a dark shape and spider-like veins around Day 6-7.

• Infertile: The egg will look clear with no dark spot or blood vessels.

   

By Day 14, fertile eggs will be mostly dark with less visible light passing through. Meaning, your chick is filling up the space!

Final Thoughts on Egg Candling

The first time you candle eggs, it might feel intimidating, but trust me, it gets easier! With practice, you’ll learn to quickly spot which eggs are progressing and which ones aren’t. This not only helps you manage your hatch more confidently, but it can also prevent contamination and heartbreak later on.

If you’re hatching eggs this spring, I’d love to see your fluffy new arrivals! Send pics my way. And don’t forget to grab your Baby Chick Care Kit. It’s packed with everything your chicks need to thrive during their first month!

Until next time,

–The Wing Lady 🐣

Everyone loves a yard sprinkled with different colors and breeds of chickens. Well, at least people who love chickens do! Chickens come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes and colors, and each is fascinating in its own unique way.

But few are as charming and eye-catching as the Frizzle chicken breed. With their flipped-up feathers and sweet personality, Frizzles have captivated chicken lovers around the world. My own little Tinkerbell is a fan favorite! She’s itty bitty, but her personality is larger than life and she’s been an incredible addition to our backyard crew.

The History of Frizzle Chickens

Frizzle chickens have been around for centuries, with their unique feather gene likely originating in Southeast Asia. Some of the earliest records of Frizzles date back to the 1600s, when they were described by naturalists and travelers exploring the region.

The frizzled feather trait is actually the result of a natural genetic mutation. Rather than lying flat, the feathers curl outward, creating that fluffy, windswept look. Over time, breeders began to intentionally select for this trait in several chicken breeds.

Today, Frizzle chickens aren’t a distinct breed, but rather a feather type that can appear in birds like:

• Cochins

• Polish

• Orpingtons

• Silkies

• Mille Fleur d’Uccles (like my girl Tinkerbell!)

   

What Does a Frizzle Chicken Look Like?

It’s pretty hard to miss a Frizzle in the flock. Their curled feathers give them a puffball appearance that looks like they’ve just stepped out of a wind tunnel, in the cutest way possible. Because they can’t lay flat, their feathers also don’t insulate as well, so they tend to need a little extra care in cold weather.

Their eye-catching looks make them popular in poultry shows, but Frizzles aren’t just for show, they’re sweet, curious and tend to be very people-friendly.

How Many Eggs Do Frizzle Chickens Lay?

If you’re wondering, “Do Frizzle chickens lay eggs?”—they absolutely do! Just don’t expect them to be your top producers.

Since Frizzles are a feather type and not a production-focused breed, egg-laying depends on the breed they’re crossed with. On average, you can expect:

• 150 to 180 eggs per year

• Small to medium-sized eggs

• Cream or tinted shell colors

   

They’re more of a companion or show bird, but those eggs are still a nice bonus!

Caring for Frizzle Chickens

Frizzle chickens need the same basics as any backyard chicken, with a few small tweaks for their special feathers:

• A dry, draft-free coop is a must, especially in winter, since their feathers don’t shed water well

• Provide clean bedding and good ventilation

• Give them access to dust baths to help with feather and skin health

• Offer a balanced feed, grit and clean water daily

Here’s what I use in my own coop:

• Coop Recuperate for cleaner, healthier bedding

• Preen Queen in their dust baths to keep their feathers clean and insect-free

• Chicken E-lixir in their water for daily vitamins and immune support

Why Frizzles Are Worth the Hype

Whether you’re drawn to their adorable, poofy look or their easygoing personality, the Frizzle chicken breed is sure to bring something special to your backyard.

Tinkerbell may be half the size of everyone else, but she walks around like she runs the place (she doesn’t, but don’t tell her that). Most of my flock looks out for her and lets her do her thing, which is just one more reason I love raising chickens.

I started this journey to put fresh, healthy eggs on the table. But I stayed in it because I fell in love with the personalities, quirks and little moments that make chicken keeping so rewarding.

If you’re looking for a fun, friendly bird to brighten up your flock, add a Frizzle or two. You won’t regret it!

Until next time,

–The Wing Lady

I remember walking out to check on the girls one hot summer day a few years back. I do regular health checks on my flock, so I immediately noticed Nugget, my black Silkie, hanging back by the fence looking off. One look and I knew she wasn’t feeling right. I picked her up and felt her crop, and when I bent over to grab something off the ground, a smelly liquid shot out of her mouth. Gross! That was my first experience with sour crop in chickens.

What is Sour Crop in Chickens?

Sour crop, also called crop stasis or sour crop syndrome, is a condition where the crop (a pouch in the throat where chickens store food before digestion) stops emptying properly. When food gets stuck and doesn’t move through the system like it should, it can start to ferment. This leads to a buildup of gas, acids and in some cases, yeast or fungal infections. If not treated quickly, sour crop can become serious.

What Causes Sour Crop?

A lot of things can throw off a chicken’s digestive system. Diet is a big one. If a bird eats too many sugary scraps, processed food or even spoiled leftovers, it can ferment in the crop. That’s why it’s so important to know what foods you shouldn’t feed your chickens! In Nugget’s case, I’m pretty sure she grabbed something weird while free-ranging.

Lack of dietary fiber can slow digestion too. And if your chickens don’t have access to fresh, clean water, their crop can harden and block up. That’s one reason I use Chicken E-lixir in my flock’s water daily. It’s an easy way to support hydration and overall health!

Other common causes of sour crop include fungal infections, stress from overcrowding or extreme temperatures and even small objects a curious chicken might swallow. Unfortunately, if your birds free-range, there’s always some risk. But keeping their diet balanced and environment low-stress goes a long way.

Signs of Sour Crop in Chickens

It’s important to spot sour crop early. Some of the clearest symptoms include:

• A swollen or squishy crop, especially in the morning when it should be empty

• A foul, sour odor coming from the bird’s beak

• Lethargy or isolating from the flock

• Loss of appetite

• Weight loss over time

• Occasional regurgitation of liquid or undigested food

You may also notice a puffed-out crop area that stays full all day, wet feathers under the beak from regurgitation, or a hunched-over posture that shows your hen isn’t feeling her best

When I checked Nugget, she had all of these signs, except the weight loss, since I caught it early.

How to Treat Sour Crop in Chickens

Once you suspect sour crop, act quickly to relieve discomfort and get digestion back on track.

Start by removing all food for 12 to 24 hours to give the crop a break. I brought Nugget into the garage, gave her a quiet place to rest in a kennel and separated her from the rest of the flock. Honestly, she didn’t even care about the missing food. She wasn’t feeling up to eating anyway.

Make sure your chicken has plenty of clean water! I added Flock Fixer to Nugget’s water, which I truly believe helped her bounce back. It’s packed with oregano essential oil, prebiotics, probiotics, electrolytes, and vitamins which is perfect for stress recovery and gut support.

I also gently massaged her crop to help loosen the contents and get things moving. A couple times a day, I’d tip her slightly forward while massaging so she could expel any liquid buildup. Just plug your nose, it’s not pleasant!

How Long Does Recovery Take?

In Nugget’s case, she spent two days resting in the garage. She was a sweet little patient and responded well to the care. After that, she was back with her flock, scratching around like nothing had happened.

Preventing Sour Crop in Chickens

The best way to avoid sour crop is by staying consistent with care. Feed a balanced, fiber-rich diet and limit sugary or processed treats. Offer constant access to clean water and use preventative support like Chicken E-lixir or Flock Fixer to boost hydration and digestion, especially in stressful times like heat waves or changes in environment.

And most importantly? Keep a close eye on your birds. Catching sour crop early made all the difference for Nugget!

Until next time,

The Wing Lady

I remember having big dreams of starting my own seedlings and saving a ton of money on our garden. While it can be a rewarding and budget-friendly task, the older I get, the more I lean toward just buying started plants. But if you’re feeling ambitious and want to try growing from seed, planting in eggshells is a fun and eco-friendly way to get started.

That said, not every plant loves being tucked into a tiny eggshell pot. Here’s what to know before you crack into seed starting.

Why Use Eggshells for Seed Starting?

Eggshells make adorable little seed starters, and they’re a great way to reuse something you’d normally toss out. For backyard chicken keepers and gardeners alike, it feels good to repurpose natural materials and cut down on plastic waste. Plus, eggshells break down in the soil over time and offer a small calcium boost to your garden, which can support healthy plant growth.

To prepare eggshell seed starters:

• Crack eggs near the top to keep the shell mostly intact

• Rinse out the inside and let them dry

• Poke a small drainage hole in the bottom

• Place shells back in the carton for stability

• Fill with seed-starting mix and plant your seeds

Eggshells are especially fun for kids or anyone looking for a hands-on gardening project. Just remember, they’re small, so they’re best suited for plants with compact root systems or those that grow quickly and can be transplanted early.

Fast Growers and Deep Rooters Need More Room

Some plants just aren’t a good match for eggshell seed starting, either because they grow quickly or send roots deep into the soil. Eggshells are eco-friendly and effective, but their small size can limit root development and cause more harm than good for certain crops.

Fast-growing vegetables like lettuce and radishes often do best when sown directly into the garden or larger containers. I personally love planting big pots of lettuce on our deck. It looks beautiful and makes picking supper a breeze!

You’ll want to skip eggshells for these plants with large or deep root systems:

• Lettuce and radishes – Fast growers that quickly outpace the small space

• Tomatoes, cucumbers and squash – Develop sprawling root systems

• Carrots, beets and parsnips – Need deep soil for long, healthy taproots

   

Trying to grow these in eggshells can lead to stunted growth, crowded or twisted roots and transplant shock that slows them down once they hit the garden. In the case of root veggies, it may even lead to misshapen or poorly developed produce.

If you’re growing any of these crops, give them a better start with deeper seed trays, small pots or direct sowing into the ground. They’ll thank you for the extra space.

Heavy Feeders Need More Than Calcium

Additionally, corn, peppers and similar plants are known as “heavy feeders,” meaning they need a lot of nutrients to grow. While eggshells offer calcium, they can’t come close to meeting the early nutrient demands of these plants. That’s especially true during germination and the first few weeks of growth, when a solid nutritional foundation sets the tone for the entire growing season.

If you’re starting heavy feeders, opt for a high-quality potting mix with added compost or natural fertilizers. Use larger containers or seed trays that allow the roots to expand and access those nutrients. You’ll set your plants up for better growth, higher yields and less transplant shock down the line.

And if you raise chickens, this is a great spot to use composted chicken manure to enrich your mix. Just make sure it’s fully composted and aged, as fresh manure is too strong for seedlings and can burn them.

Acid-Loving Plants and Eggshells Don’t Mix

Soil pH plays also plays a big role in whether your plants thrive or struggle. Some plants, like blueberries, and azaleas, prefer more acidic soil to help them absorb the nutrients they need. Eggshells, on the other hand, are naturally alkaline. When used as seed-starting containers for acid-loving plants, they can raise the pH of the soil just enough to cause problems.

If the pH isn’t right, these plants may struggle with nutrient uptake, which can show up as yellowing leaves, weak stems and stunted growth. In short, it’s not worth the risk.

To give these types of plants a good start, skip the eggshells and choose a seed-starting mix designed for acid-loving plants. You’ll set them up for healthier growth and fewer nutrient issues from the beginning.

Tiny Seeds Can Be Tricky in Eggshells

Seeds from flowers like petunias and snapdragons are so small that spacing them in an eggshell is tough. If you can manage it, it’s doable, but it’s much easier with seed trays that have more space and separation.

So… Should You Start Seeds in Eggshells?

Starting seeds in eggshells can be a fun, sustainable option. I used to love doing it when our kids were little. But now? I’ll admit, I skip the hardening-off process and head to the garden center for transplants. No shame in that!

Whether you go DIY or buy your seedlings ready to plant, one thing’s for sure, nothing beats the flavor of homegrown produce. Our garden is right next to the chicken run, and the girls would agree… gardening season is our favorite season!

Until next time,

-The Wing Lady