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Understanding the Growth Stages of a Hen: From Chick to Mature Layer

There is nothing better than getting little chicks. I love listening to their tiny peeps and spend hours just observing their behaviors. They are tiny, fluffy, and usually so sweet! It’s important to enjoy this stage because it doesn’t last long!
chickens in nesting boxes

Chicks grow into chickens really fast! And if you want happy, healthy hens that will lay plenty of eggs, it’s important to understand each stage of their development and provide the right nutrition and care along the way.

baby chicks

Stage 1: The Chick Stage (0-6 Weeks)

Once the chicks hatch, they enter the chick stage. In these early weeks, chicks are highly dependent on their mother (or a brooder) for warmth, food, and water. During this time, proper care and nutrition are vital for healthy growth. Let me break these weeks down for you. 

Week 1: Chicks are covered in downy feathers and require a heat source. They begin to walk and peck for food. I always use the Baby Chick Care Kit to make sure all their systems get off to a strong start.

Weeks 2-3: Their feathers start to develop more, and they become more active. They begin socializing and establishing a pecking order. This can go just fine or it can get kind of nasty. It’s important to watch for injuries and treat accordingly as they figure out who will be the top hen. 

Weeks 4-6: Chicks shed their down feathers for “teenage” feathers and can regulate their body temperature better. Their diet can be supplemented with grit and more varied foods, but I do this very sparingly. Weeks 1-6, I feed my chicks chick crumble and First Peep. 

teenage chicken. young chicken. pullet chicken

Stage 2: The Pullet Stage (6 Weeks – 6 Months)

After the chick stage, the young hens become pullets. This stage is characterized by rapid growth as they begin to mature. It’s an exciting stage because pullets typically start to develop their unique colors and patterns. It’s also during this stage where you would slowly start integrating them into your existing flock if you have one!

This transition takes a lot of patience, but I promise they will eventually all get along. If you want your chickens to be friends with you, it’s important to handle them, give them treats and spend a lot of time with them. There are so many people who don’t understand how my chickens will let me hold them, etc., but it’s because I’ve invested the time into them. And, it’s so worth it for the chicken snuggles! 

Weeks 6-12: Learning the Social Rules

Stronger social behaviors emerge as pullets establish their place in the flock. This takes some babysitting to make sure everyone can play nice. I feed them a grower feed, which supports their rapid development. But, I will say, if you integrate them into your existing flock, they end up just eating the others’ layer feed. It’s tough to separate, but don’t worry. I haven’t had any trouble!

Months 4-6: Prepping for Egg Laying

Pullets will begin the transition to layers. Their bodies prepare for egg production, and they may exhibit nesting behaviors. You will notice they start submitting to you by squatting and staying still when they’re getting ready to lay. It’s so exciting!

Stage 3: The Laying Hen Stage (6 Months & Beyond)

Once a pullet reaches around 6 months of age, she usually starts laying eggs. This is dependent on their breed and health of course.

I will never forget my first egg! It was one of the most exciting days in our backyard! I’m pretty sure the neighbors heard all about it from my excited shouts! Hahaha!

 
mature chicken

Stage 4: The Mature Hen Stage (18 Months & Beyond)

After reaching 18 months, hens are generally considered mature. They will continue to lay eggs, although production usually starts to slow down as they age. From first lay to around two years is the “prime” laying years for your hens. They will honestly lay pretty solidly through 3-4 years.

Today, I have hens who are almost 7 years old and they have slowed down and almost stopped. But, they will live out their lives in my coop. They have become my pets and I love them dearly!

However, mature hens do require more monitoring for health. Even though they slow down in the laying department, they will remain your flock MVP’s because they keep everyone in line and show the new ones the ropes. I think it’s worth holding onto them if you’re not bound by number restrictions. 

Caring for Your Hens at Every Stage

Understanding the growth stages of a hen allows poultry keepers to provide the right care and management at each phase. By understanding these developmental milestones, you can ensure your flock remains healthy and productive! Whether for eggs, companionship or both, taking care of your hens through their growth stages is worth it and beneficial for both you and your flock!

How to Candle an Egg (and Spot a Growing Chick!)

It’s spring, and for many backyard chicken keepers, that means one thing: new chicks! I usually order mine from Hoover’s Hatchery, but I’ve also hatched my own a couple of times. It’s exciting, fascinating and honestly, a little nerve-wracking! But if you’re up for the adventure, I’ll walk you through how to candle an egg and spot the signs of chick development along the way.

candling chicken eggs, holding a candled egg in someone's hand

What is Egg Candling?

Candling is a simple method used to check if an egg is fertile and developing properly. It involves shining a bright light through the egg to see what’s going on inside without cracking it open. The term “candling” comes from the old-school practice of using candles, but a strong flashlight works just fine today.

Candling is most helpful for:

  • Checking if eggs are fertile

  • Monitoring chick development

  • Removing eggs that aren’t progressing (so they don’t spoil and affect healthy eggs)

When to Candle Eggs During Incubation

Chick development takes about 21 days from start to hatch. Most people candle twice:

  • Day 7: Check for early signs of life. A fertile egg will show a small dark spot (the embryo) with red veins branching out and a visible air sac. You might even catch a little movement! If you don’t see veins or an air sac, it’s likely the egg isn’t developing.

  • Day 14: By now, a healthy chick should take up most of the egg. Look for a darker interior, less light passing through and continued movement. If it still looks clear or hasn’t changed since Day 7, the egg likely isn’t viable and should be removed.

     

These two candling sessions give you the clearest view of what’s happening inside the shell.

 
candling a fertile chicken eggs showing veins and embryo

How to Candle an Egg Step-by-Step

Here’s how I do it at home, and it doesn’t require anything fancy:

  1. Wash your hands before and after handling eggs.

  2. Use a bright light source in a dark room. A strong flashlight works great!

  3. Place the narrow end of the egg gently against the light.

  4. Look for signs of development:

    • Infertile egg: Clear inside, no veins or dark spots.

    • Fertile egg: Dark spot (embryo) with visible red veins.

    • No change by Day 14: Could mean the chick stopped developing.

I like to number each egg and jot down what I see, just like in the photo below. It makes it so much easier to track progress throughout incubation.

Marking down numbers on eggs during candling

Pro Tip: Always return eggs to the same position in the incubator and work quickly to preserve heat and humidity levels.

How to Tell if an Egg is Fertile vs Infertile

This is the most common question I get! If the egg is:

  • Fertile: You’ll see a dark shape and spider-like veins around Day 6-7.

  • Infertile: The egg will look clear with no dark spot or blood vessels.

     
fertile vs unfertile chicken egg candling

By Day 14, fertile eggs will be mostly dark with less visible light passing through. Meaning, your chick is filling up the space!

candling chicken eggs chart

Final Thoughts on Egg Candling

The first time you candle eggs, it might feel intimidating, but trust me, it gets easier! With practice, you’ll learn to quickly spot which eggs are progressing and which ones aren’t. This not only helps you manage your hatch more confidently, but it can also prevent contamination and heartbreak later on.

 

If you’re hatching eggs this spring, I’d love to see your fluffy new arrivals! Send pics my way. And don’t forget to grab your Baby Chick Care Kit. It’s packed with everything your chicks need to thrive during their first month!

Until next time,

–The Wing Lady 🐣

Role of the Rooster

Besides the obvious need for procreation, many people ask me what the reason for having a rooster is. If you don’t need a rooster for the hens to lay eggs, then why keep one? A rooster provides protection and stability to his flock. Ever vigilant, he keeps his hens close and always is looking and listening out for danger. Keeping a rooster is more of a personal preference, but there are sure advantages to adding one to your flock.

Cockerels vs Pullets

A cockerel is a young male rooster, while a pullet is a young female chicken.

If you purchase “straight run” chicks, you are gambling on the gender of your chicks. “Straight run” chicks are male and female chicks mixed together. While there are several debated theories on how to tell the difference, the only sure fire way to determine gender is by sexing done by a trained professional. The sexual organs are internal, so unless the chicks are sex-linked. Sex-linked chicks are the male and female chicks of a particular breed look different as chicks, but these chickens will not

 

Young roosters, called cockerels, do have some features you can look out for. Cockerel chicks will have thicker, bigger feet and legs. They also have what some describe as an “angry eye.” The chick may not actually be feeling any particular way, but it is true that baby roosters have a slant to their eyes, almost giving them an squinty, angry appearance! The only sure fire way to determine whether you have a pullet or a cockerel, will become evident when it starts to crow!

 

Roosters help feed their hens.

Did you know a good rooster will actually feed his hens before himself? Yes, a gentleman rooster will offer delectable treats to his wives. He will call them over with a rapid, high pitched cluck. He will pick up the morsel and keep dropping it in front of the hen to see.

Young roosters are often less chivalrous, and tend to be greedier than the seasoned roosters. This devotion seems to come with age and maturity. Just like people,all roosters can be different. If you have a good one, keep him around! If you have a bad one,best to remove the problem instead of try to reform them. Aggressive roosters are no joke and can be relentless. Defending yourself just emboldens the rooster, and they really do not seem to learn from reprimands with a broom. The best place for a problem rooster is in the oven!

Crowing

The most iconic trait of the rooster is their crow. Roosters start crowing at around 3 months old, and sometimes this is the first indicator for new chicken owners that they even have a rooster. Roosters crow to stake claim to their territory and warn other roosters to stay away. The frequency and volume depends in the individual. It is true that each rooster has his own unique sounding crow. Roosters don’t just crow in the morning, they will crow all day, and sometimes even in the dead of the night! Its important to consider whether you (and your neighbors) would be okay with tolerating a particular level of noise, that will be happening throughout the entire day.

 

Roosters provide free flock surveillance.

The main reason to keep a rooster is to help protect your flock. If he is devoted, a rooster will spend all day keeping an eye on his ladies. Always checking the sky and also keeping tabs on the location of all his hens, a good rooster will definitely improve the survivability of the flock. While some roosters will go to battle to defend a hen, their main contribution is as an alarm system. It really is true that a rooster will be hyper vigilant throughout the day, while the hens tend to be a little less observant of their surroundings. His warning call, a quick and high pitched rapid almost shout, alerts the hens to danger. At his call, the hens will always fly for cover.

 

Roosters provide flock replenishment for free.

The best hen to rooster ratio is 1 rooster per about 10-12 hens. A single rooster is totally fine with more hens, but if you are wanting hatching eggs, its best to stay closer to the ratio to increase your chances of fertile eggs. Mating happens quickly, usually with the rooster first calling the hen, tempting her with a small piece of food. He will then put one wing down, extended to the ground, and do a little dance around her. If the hen accepts him, she will squat on the ground. After mating, the hen can keep sperm within her for several weeks, thus not needing to mate everyday to lay daily fertile eggs.

As far as paternal instincts, roosters don’t have much. They will continue to protect and look over the flock, but it is the mother chickens that do the chick rearing.

 

 

Roosters are beautiful, fun characters to have on your farm. Their quintessential crow, and watching them strut proudly around the yard, reminds us of a simpler time and place. If local ordinances allow, try adding a rooster to your flock. Roosters are usually less expensive than hens of the same breed, and you can even sometimes find people giving them away! (just be sure to get a nice one!)

All About the Frizzle Chicken Breed

Everyone loves a yard sprinkled with different colors and breeds of chickens. Well, at least people who love chickens do! Chickens come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes and colors, and each is fascinating in its own unique way.

frizzle chicken

But few are as charming and eye-catching as the Frizzle chicken breed. With their flipped-up feathers and sweet personality, Frizzles have captivated chicken lovers around the world. My own little Tinkerbell is a fan favorite! She’s itty bitty, but her personality is larger than life and she’s been an incredible addition to our backyard crew.

 

The History of Frizzle Chickens

Frizzle chickens have been around for centuries, with their unique feather gene likely originating in Southeast Asia. Some of the earliest records of Frizzles date back to the 1600s, when they were described by naturalists and travelers exploring the region.

 

The frizzled feather trait is actually the result of a natural genetic mutation. Rather than lying flat, the feathers curl outward, creating that fluffy, windswept look. Over time, breeders began to intentionally select for this trait in several chicken breeds.

 
young frizzle chicken

Today, Frizzle chickens aren’t a distinct breed, but rather a feather type that can appear in birds like:

  • Cochins

  • Polish

  • Orpingtons

  • Silkies

  • Mille Fleur d’Uccles (like my girl Tinkerbell!)

     

What Does a Frizzle Chicken Look Like?

It’s pretty hard to miss a Frizzle in the flock. Their curled feathers give them a puffball appearance that looks like they’ve just stepped out of a wind tunnel, in the cutest way possible. Because they can’t lay flat, their feathers also don’t insulate as well, so they tend to need a little extra care in cold weather.

 

Their eye-catching looks make them popular in poultry shows, but Frizzles aren’t just for show, they’re sweet, curious and tend to be very people-friendly.

 
woman holding a frizzle chicken
 

How Many Eggs Do Frizzle Chickens Lay?

If you’re wondering, “Do Frizzle chickens lay eggs?”—they absolutely do! Just don’t expect them to be your top producers.

 

Since Frizzles are a feather type and not a production-focused breed, egg-laying depends on the breed they’re crossed with. On average, you can expect:

  • 150 to 180 eggs per year

  • Small to medium-sized eggs

  • Cream or tinted shell colors

     

They’re more of a companion or show bird, but those eggs are still a nice bonus!

 

Caring for Frizzle Chickens

Frizzle chickens need the same basics as any backyard chicken, with a few small tweaks for their special feathers:

  • A dry, draft-free coop is a must, especially in winter, since their feathers don’t shed water well

  • Provide clean bedding and good ventilation

  • Give them access to dust baths to help with feather and skin health

  • Offer a balanced feed, grit and clean water daily

 

Here’s what I use in my own coop:

 

Why Frizzles Are Worth the Hype

Whether you’re drawn to their adorable, poofy look or their easygoing personality, the Frizzle chicken breed is sure to bring something special to your backyard.

 

Tinkerbell may be half the size of everyone else, but she walks around like she runs the place (she doesn’t, but don’t tell her that). Most of my flock looks out for her and lets her do her thing, which is just one more reason I love raising chickens.

 

I started this journey to put fresh, healthy eggs on the table. But I stayed in it because I fell in love with the personalities, quirks and little moments that make chicken keeping so rewarding.

 

If you’re looking for a fun, friendly bird to brighten up your flock, add a Frizzle or two. You won’t regret it!

Until next time,

–The Wing Lady

How Many Eggs Does a Chicken Lay in a Day?

It’s spring, and you know what that means! Backyard flocks are booming. Thanks to rising egg prices, baby chicks are flying off the shelves as more people dive into the joys of raising chickens. And while the eggs are certainly a bonus, it’s the fun, quirky personalities of chickens that make them truly lovable.

chicken sitting in a nesting box on 3 eggs

Eggs are one of the most popular kitchen staples around the world, and most of them come from chickens. Sure, duck and goose eggs have their place, but today we’re talking all things chicken eggs.

 

One of the most common questions I get is: How many eggs does a chicken lay in a day? The answer depends on a few key factors like breed, age, diet, environment and time of year.

 

How Often Do Chickens Lay Eggs?

On average, a healthy, happy hen lays one egg every 24 to 26 hours. That’s about an egg a day, though it’s not guaranteed. Once a hen lays an egg, her body immediately begins forming the next one. Because of this natural rhythm, it’s extremely rare for a hen to lay more than one egg per day.

 

To help support their health and egg production, I love giving my flock Chicken E-lixir. It’s like a daily vitamin for chickens, packed with calcium, electrolytes, prebiotics and oregano essential oil. Basically, everything hens need to stay strong and productive

 

What Affects Egg Production in Chickens?

There are several factors that influence how many eggs your chickens will lay. These include:

  1. Breed Some breeds are egg-laying machines! For example, Leghorns can lay over 300 eggs per year. Breeds like Silkies or Polish chickens, on the other hand, are more ornamental and lay far fewer eggs.

  2. Age Hens usually start laying eggs at around 5 to 6 months old. Their egg production peaks during the first 1–2 years and gradually slows as they age. My oldest gals are over 6 years old and only lay occasionally now, but I still adore them!

  3. Lighting Chickens need 14–16 hours of light per day to maintain steady egg production. That’s why many chicken keepers add supplemental lighting in the winter. Personally, I give my girls a seasonal break, but it’s your choice.

  4. Nutrition A balanced diet rich in protein, calcium and other key nutrients is essential for consistent egg-laying. Supplementing with products like Chicken E-lixir or offering high-quality treats like Golden Graze can help round out their daily diet.

  5. Stress and Environment Things like dirty coops, illness, predator scares or sudden changes in routine can affect laying. Keeping your coop clean, calm and safe helps keep your hens happy and their laying on track.

     

Why Some Hens Don’t Lay Every Day

Even with all the right conditions, not all hens lay every day. Some may lay every other day or even skip several days. Here are a few common reasons:

  • Natural laying cycles

  • Molting periods, when hens regrow feathers

  • Stress, such as flock changes or loud noises

  • Diet or health issues

 

Consistency matters. Clean water, fresh bedding, plenty of light and a calm environment go a long way in supporting egg production. A little care goes a long way in helping your flock thrive!

 

The Joy of Raising Chickens

chicken sitting next to a flower pot and golden graze chicken treats

Eggs are great, but if you’re like me, it’s your chickens’ personalities that win your heart. I mean, how cute is Tinkerbell posing next to her Golden Graze snack?

 

Raising chickens brings daily smiles, fresh eggs and a whole lot of fun. Whether you’re in it for the nutrition, the lifestyle or just the joy of backyard chickens, one thing’s for sure, these feathered friends are worth every moment.

 

Until next time,

 

–The Wing Lady

What Are the Differences Between a Rooster and a Hen?

If you’re not familiar with backyard chickens, you might not automatically know the difference between a hen and a rooster. It’s something most of us in the Midwest probably take for granted and even wonder how people couldn’t know the difference.
 
hen and rooster

It reminds me of the time growing up when my cousin from the Twin Cities came to visit. She was so excited to see all the “dogs” running through the field. They were sheep. Haha! It was funny at the moment, but I realized then that not everyone gets to grow up around farm animals and learn the simple difference between a rooster and a hen.

 

Let’s break it down in a way that’s easy, practical and (hopefully) a little entertaining.

 

Size, Shape and Fancy Feathers

Roosters (the boys) and hens (the girls) each bring their own look to the flock. Roosters are usually the bigger, flashier ones. They tend to be more robust in size and have more prominent combs and wattles, you know, the red stuff on their head and under their beak. Roosters also have longer, more colorful tail feathers and those slick saddle feathers along their backs.

 

That said, not all hens are plain. I’ve got a few walking around my backyard that could give any rooster a run for his money in the looks department!

 

The Sounds They Make

Roosters are known for their classic crowing, but here’s the truth: it’s not just a morning thing. Any rooster I’ve had has crowed all day long. They crow to stake their claim, protect their hens or just because they feel like it.

 

Hens have their own language, too. They mostly cluck, sometimes to show they’re happy, sometimes when something’s up. Their voices are usually a bit softer (but not always!). I love sitting out in the run just listening to them go back and forth like they’ve got all the gossip.

 

Who’s in Charge?

Roosters tend to take the lead. They’re naturally more assertive and play the role of protector. If there’s a threat nearby, your rooster will let you, and the whole flock, know about it.

 

Within the coop, there’s always a pecking order. If there’s a rooster, he’s usually at the top. Hens will fall in line behind him. If there’s no rooster? The hens will sort it out themselves, and let me tell you, it’s not always pretty. Fights and squabbles will happen until a top hen takes charge. And once that order is set, everyone knows their place. It’s honestly fascinating to watch.

 

The Big Question: Do You Need a Rooster for Eggs?

This is one I get asked a lot, and the answer is no. Hens will lay eggs just fine without a rooster around. The eggs just won’t be fertilized.

 

If you do have a rooster, he’ll mate with your hens and the next eggs laid could hatch into chicks. Roosters don’t exactly believe in monogamy either, one rooster will mate with multiple hens a day. It’s just how they’re wired.

 

Lifespan, Behavior and Backyard Drama

Both roosters and hens can live for several years, depending on the breed and how well they’re cared for. Hens typically lay eggs for a few productive years, while roosters can sometimes get a bit testy, especially if they’re overcrowded or just have a feisty personality.

 

I’ve had to rehome a few roosters (and even a couple hens) over the years for getting too aggressive. I don’t tolerate naughty behavior in the coop. Right now, I’ve got one rooster who’s behaving himself, and I’m loving the peaceful balance. There’s something special about stepping outside and hearing him crow in the morning. It just feels like home.

 

Roosters and hens are definitely different, but they both bring something unique to your flock. I love having a kind rooster around to watch over his ladies, and there’s nothing better than collecting fresh eggs from my hens each day.

 

Raising backyard chickens has been one of my very best yes’s!

 

Until next time,

 

-The Wing Lady

What is Sour Crop in Chickens and How to Treat It

I remember walking out to check on the girls one hot summer day a few years back. I do regular health checks on my flock, so I immediately noticed Nugget, my black Silkie, hanging back by the fence looking off. One look and I knew she wasn’t feeling right. I picked her up and felt her crop, and when I bent over to grab something off the ground, a smelly liquid shot out of her mouth. Gross! That was my first experience with sour crop in chickens.

 

What is Sour Crop in Chickens?

Sour crop, also called crop stasis or sour crop syndrome, is a condition where the crop (a pouch in the throat where chickens store food before digestion) stops emptying properly. When food gets stuck and doesn’t move through the system like it should, it can start to ferment. This leads to a buildup of gas, acids and in some cases, yeast or fungal infections. If not treated quickly, sour crop can become serious.

 

What Causes Sour Crop?

A lot of things can throw off a chicken’s digestive system. Diet is a big one. If a bird eats too many sugary scraps, processed food or even spoiled leftovers, it can ferment in the crop. That’s why it’s so important to know what foods you shouldn’t feed your chickens! In Nugget’s case, I’m pretty sure she grabbed something weird while free-ranging.

 

Lack of dietary fiber can slow digestion too. And if your chickens don’t have access to fresh, clean water, their crop can harden and block up. That’s one reason I use Chicken E-lixir in my flock’s water daily. It’s an easy way to support hydration and overall health!

 

Other common causes of sour crop include fungal infections, stress from overcrowding or extreme temperatures and even small objects a curious chicken might swallow. Unfortunately, if your birds free-range, there’s always some risk. But keeping their diet balanced and environment low-stress goes a long way.

 

Signs of Sour Crop in Chickens

It’s important to spot sour crop early. Some of the clearest symptoms include:

  • A swollen or squishy crop, especially in the morning when it should be empty

  • A foul, sour odor coming from the bird’s beak

  • Lethargy or isolating from the flock

  • Loss of appetite

  • Weight loss over time

  • Occasional regurgitation of liquid or undigested food

 

You may also notice a puffed-out crop area that stays full all day, wet feathers under the beak from regurgitation, or a hunched-over posture that shows your hen isn’t feeling her best

 

When I checked Nugget, she had all of these signs, except the weight loss, since I caught it early.

 

How to Treat Sour Crop in Chickens

Once you suspect sour crop, act quickly to relieve discomfort and get digestion back on track.

 

Start by removing all food for 12 to 24 hours to give the crop a break. I brought Nugget into the garage, gave her a quiet place to rest in a kennel and separated her from the rest of the flock. Honestly, she didn’t even care about the missing food. She wasn’t feeling up to eating anyway.

 

Make sure your chicken has plenty of clean water! I added Flock Fixer to Nugget’s water, which I truly believe helped her bounce back. It’s packed with oregano essential oil, prebiotics, probiotics, electrolytes, and vitamins which is perfect for stress recovery and gut support.

 

I also gently massaged her crop to help loosen the contents and get things moving. A couple times a day, I’d tip her slightly forward while massaging so she could expel any liquid buildup. Just plug your nose, it’s not pleasant!

 

How Long Does Recovery Take?

In Nugget’s case, she spent two days resting in the garage. She was a sweet little patient and responded well to the care. After that, she was back with her flock, scratching around like nothing had happened.

 

Preventing Sour Crop in Chickens

The best way to avoid sour crop is by staying consistent with care. Feed a balanced, fiber-rich diet and limit sugary or processed treats. Offer constant access to clean water and use preventative support like Chicken E-lixir or Flock Fixer to boost hydration and digestion, especially in stressful times like heat waves or changes in environment.

 

And most importantly? Keep a close eye on your birds. Catching sour crop early made all the difference for Nugget!

 

Until next time,

 

The Wing Lady

Which Vegetables and Flowers Shouldn’t Be Started in Eggshells?

I remember having big dreams of starting my own seedlings and saving a ton of money on our garden. While it can be a rewarding and budget-friendly task, the older I get, the more I lean toward just buying started plants. But if you’re feeling ambitious and want to try growing from seed, planting in eggshells is a fun and eco-friendly way to get started.
two tomatoes form the garden being held in a hand

That said, not every plant loves being tucked into a tiny eggshell pot. Here’s what to know before you crack into seed starting.

 

Why Use Eggshells for Seed Starting?

Eggshells make adorable little seed starters, and they’re a great way to reuse something you’d normally toss out. For backyard chicken keepers and gardeners alike, it feels good to repurpose natural materials and cut down on plastic waste. Plus, eggshells break down in the soil over time and offer a small calcium boost to your garden, which can support healthy plant growth.

plant growing in eggshell

 

To prepare eggshell seed starters:

  • Crack eggs near the top to keep the shell mostly intact

  • Rinse out the inside and let them dry

  • Poke a small drainage hole in the bottom

  • Place shells back in the carton for stability

  • Fill with seed-starting mix and plant your seeds

 

Eggshells are especially fun for kids or anyone looking for a hands-on gardening project. Just remember, they’re small, so they’re best suited for plants with compact root systems or those that grow quickly and can be transplanted early.

 

Fast Growers and Deep Rooters Need More Room

Some plants just aren’t a good match for eggshell seed starting, either because they grow quickly or send roots deep into the soil. Eggshells are eco-friendly and effective, but their small size can limit root development and cause more harm than good for certain crops.

 

Fast-growing vegetables like lettuce and radishes often do best when sown directly into the garden or larger containers. I personally love planting big pots of lettuce on our deck. It looks beautiful and makes picking supper a breeze!

chicken in the garden with tomatoes and cucumbers

 

You’ll want to skip eggshells for these plants with large or deep root systems:

  • Lettuce and radishes – Fast growers that quickly outpace the small space

  • Tomatoes, cucumbers and squash – Develop sprawling root systems

  • Carrots, beets and parsnips – Need deep soil for long, healthy taproots

     

Trying to grow these in eggshells can lead to stunted growth, crowded or twisted roots and transplant shock that slows them down once they hit the garden. In the case of root veggies, it may even lead to misshapen or poorly developed produce.

 

If you’re growing any of these crops, give them a better start with deeper seed trays, small pots or direct sowing into the ground. They’ll thank you for the extra space.

 

Heavy Feeders Need More Than Calcium

Additionally, corn, peppers and similar plants are known as “heavy feeders,” meaning they need a lot of nutrients to grow. While eggshells offer calcium, they can’t come close to meeting the early nutrient demands of these plants. That’s especially true during germination and the first few weeks of growth, when a solid nutritional foundation sets the tone for the entire growing season.

 

If you’re starting heavy feeders, opt for a high-quality potting mix with added compost or natural fertilizers. Use larger containers or seed trays that allow the roots to expand and access those nutrients. You’ll set your plants up for better growth, higher yields and less transplant shock down the line.

 

And if you raise chickens, this is a great spot to use composted chicken manure to enrich your mix. Just make sure it’s fully composted and aged, as fresh manure is too strong for seedlings and can burn them.

Acid-Loving Plants and Eggshells Don’t Mix

Soil pH plays also plays a big role in whether your plants thrive or struggle. Some plants, like blueberries, and azaleas, prefer more acidic soil to help them absorb the nutrients they need. Eggshells, on the other hand, are naturally alkaline. When used as seed-starting containers for acid-loving plants, they can raise the pH of the soil just enough to cause problems.

 

If the pH isn’t right, these plants may struggle with nutrient uptake, which can show up as yellowing leaves, weak stems and stunted growth. In short, it’s not worth the risk.

 

To give these types of plants a good start, skip the eggshells and choose a seed-starting mix designed for acid-loving plants. You’ll set them up for healthier growth and fewer nutrient issues from the beginning.

 

Tiny Seeds Can Be Tricky in Eggshells

Seeds from flowers like petunias and snapdragons are so small that spacing them in an eggshell is tough. If you can manage it, it’s doable, but it’s much easier with seed trays that have more space and separation.

 

So… Should You Start Seeds in Eggshells?

Starting seeds in eggshells can be a fun, sustainable option. I used to love doing it when our kids were little. But now? I’ll admit, I skip the hardening-off process and head to the garden center for transplants. No shame in that!

 

Whether you go DIY or buy your seedlings ready to plant, one thing’s for sure, nothing beats the flavor of homegrown produce. Our garden is right next to the chicken run, and the girls would agree… gardening season is our favorite season!

 

Until next time,

 

-The Wing Lady

Keeping Your Coop Warm During Winter

Chickens have been doing just fine surviving winters with humans for many hundreds of years. Long before the invention of electricity, chickens have lived alongside people in the farmyards. We all love our chickens and want to give them the best care, especially during those bitter, cold winter months.

Here are a few ways to prepare your coop for winter. Whether you just want to make a few improvements to an existing coop, or might be planning a new one, these will definitely help keep your flock warm this winter.

  1. Insulate the interior coop walls. While I do not recommend using house insulation, there are many cheap and effective ways to insulate your coop. Stapling old newspaper or cardboard (I have even heard of people reusing empty feed bags), can put a huge dent in the cold that enters the coop. The thicker the walls, the warmer the inside of the coop stays. Many stores give away their cardboard boxes if you ask.
  2. Paint it dark. The darker the color, the more heat it absorbs. The simple trick of painting your coop a dark color will invite more heat from the sun, thus becoming a little warm box for your flock. It doesn’t have to be black, but the darker the better.

 

  1. Add sky lights. This tip isn’t so easily done, but can make a huge difference if you’re willing to put in the work. Adding a few sky lights, or windows on the roof of the coop, allow areas where the sunlight can directly penetrate the floor of the coop. In addition to adding a beautiful light source, I bet your hens will love sunbathing underneath them.
  1. Keep your litter dry. This is an obvious one, but keeping the litter and ground inside the coop dry is imperative. The more moisture that is inside the coop, will actually freeze onto the chickens themselves during cold nights. That is why I have started removing the waterers from inside the coop. Doing this prevents frostbite, but keeping the ice out of the waterers is a different challenge.

Many people also use the deep litter method in their coops. Instead of removing all the spoiled shavings periodically, you just keep adding more material. (layers of shavings, straw, dried leaves, etc). The litter begins to compost inside the coop and produces warmth!  When spring rolls around, you have compost for the garden and can start all over again!

 

  1. Feed a winter diet. Your hens may not be laying much this winter, and that is because they are using their energy to stay warm. You can make life easier on them by feeding a fat and protein rich diet over the winter months. Whole corn, when feed as a snack before bedtime, has long been believed to warm up the bird during digestion. Scratch mixes often contain things like corn, sunflower seeds, barley, oats, and high carb seeds. You can ask your feed store for their best winter scratch mix, and your birds will be fat and happy all winter.

 

  1. Chose your breeds wisely. Although most chickens will on average do fine during winter, there are some who thrive in the cold. I happen to live in Alabama, so our winters are not that bad, however, if you happen to live in a particularly cold climate, here are a few winter hardy breeds:
  • Cochins, Orpingtons, Rhode Island Reds, Australorps, Brahmas, Wyandottes, Jersey Giants, and Faverolles, just to name a few.

With a few adjustments, your flock will be warm and happy this winter. Enjoy this season of rest and recovery. Give your flock a little extra care this winter and they’ll be paying you back ten fold when spring rolls around!

Leaves as Bedding

If you are looking for a FREE way to keep your coop tidy this winter, try using leaves!

Any leaves raked from the yard will do, the only prerequisite is that the leaves be DRY. Rake up your leaves into a pile and let them dry for a few days. After drying, move the leaves into the coop, making the bedding thickness at least about 8” deep. You can use leaves for the deep litter method, or change them out as you clean the coop, either will work with leaves! If you don’t have access to enough leaves,  find some friendly neighbors who’d love to get them off their hands. Store extra bags of leaves in a dry location, and add them to the coop as needed throughout the winter.

Over time, the texture of the leaves will change inside the coop. As the chickens kick up and scratch the leaves, they will begin to crumble. This actually makes the perfect texture for coop flooring. Once the dried leaves have been crunched up for a few weeks, they will become similar to confetti paper. The smaller texture is easier for the chickens to move around in, and will be easier to collect when it’s time to clean.

 

All leaves from your yard should be fine for chickens. They will not eat the leaves, but instead scratch around in them. Leaves raked from the yard hold lots of yummy bugs and treats. Even if you do not use leaves as your bedding, simply giving your cooped hens a bag of leaves will provide enrichment. If they look extra bored, give them a heap of leaves in the run to get them moving. Chickens are very curious and will love hunting for any unlucky bugs in the leaf pile.

Pine needles are also a good option for coop bedding! They will be spiky at first, but just like the leaves, the needles will soon break down and crumble into softer bedding after a week or so. Pine needles also have a wonderful scent that can cover coop odors. We used pine needles in our dog’s bed growing up, and I can still remember the nice smell!

 

When you are ready to clean the coop, the leaves or pine needles will be mulched down and easy to collect with a manure fork. After being “enriched” by your chickens, the old leaf bedding will be ready for your compost pile! The addition of chicken manure actually aids in a quicker decomposition. Therefore, giving you great composted fertilizer that’ll be ready for next year’s garden! Remember to let any compost “sit” for a few months before putting directly onto your garden.

 

Personally, this will be my first year using leaves in the coop and I can’t wait! I usually use pine shavings in my coop, but with prices of everything being so high, I am going to give leaves a try! Let me know if you try leaves this fall too!

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