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What to Know About Homemade Chicken Feed

Backyard chicken keepers are some of the most resourceful people out there. A quick search online will bring up countless opinions, recipes and debates on what to feed your chickens. If you’re considering making your own chicken feed, whether to save money or to know exactly what your flock is getting, there are a few important things to keep in mind!

 
chickens eating homemade chicken feed

Why Nutrition Matters for Backyard Chickens

One of the biggest keys to a healthy, productive flock is what goes into their feeder. While commercial feeds are a convenient and reliable option, many chicken keepers are drawn to the idea of homemade chicken feed. Not all commercial feeds are created equal, but a high-quality, balanced feed is a great choice if DIY isn’t your thing.

 

Before mixing your own recipe, it’s important to understand what chickens actually need to thrive.

 

The Basic Nutrients Chickens Need

Chickens require a balance of proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins and minerals. These nutrients help support growth, egg production, feather health and overall vitality.

 

Here’s a quick breakdown:

  • Protein – Essential for growth, feather development and egg production. Common sources include soybean meal, fish meal or legumes.

  • Carbohydrates – Provide energy. Corn, wheat, barley and oats are common staples.

  • Fats – Important for energy and absorbing fat-soluble vitamins. You can use vegetable oils or animal fats.

  • Vitamins & Minerals – Calcium supports eggshell strength, while phosphorus, sodium and trace minerals support overall flock health.

  • Fiber – Needed in small amounts for healthy digestion.

  • Supplements – This is where products like Chicken E-lixir from Strong Animals Chicken Essentials shines. One capful per gallon of water adds essential vitamins and immune support. Easy and effective!

 

Tips for Making Your Own Chicken Feed

Homemade feed can be rewarding, but it’s not as simple as tossing grains in a bucket. Here are a few tips to help you do it right:

 

1. Balance is Key

Randomly mixing ingredients can lead to serious nutrient gaps or overloads. Use a proven recipe that matches your flock’s needs. Talk to a veterinarian or a poultry nutritionist.

 

2. Age Matters

A chick starter diet is not the same as a layer diet. Chicks, laying hens and meat birds all require different nutrient levels.

 

3. Store Feed Properly

Use fresh ingredients and store your feed in a dry, cool place to prevent mold, spoilage or rodent infestations.

 

4. Avoid Toxic Ingredients

Some foods, like raw beans, onions, raw potatoes, chocolate, avocado or anything moldy, are toxic to chickens. Don’t skip grit, which helps chickens grind feed in their gizzards.

 

5. Watch Your Flock Closely

Poor feathering, lethargy or decreased egg production can all signal a nutrition issue. Keep an eye out for any changes after switching feed.

 

Why I Still Buy Commercial Feed

Personally, I choose to buy a high-quality, non-medicated commercial feed. It’s simply easier. Sourcing, measuring and mixing ingredients takes time, and poultry nutrition can get complex quickly. On top of that, bulk ingredients require proper storage to keep out rodents and moisture which isn’t always practical.

 

That said, I’m a big believer in doing what works for you and your flock. Homemade chicken feed can absolutely work when done right and can be a satisfying way to care for your birds!

 

Happy, Healthy Chickens Win

Whether you make your own chicken feed or stick to a trusted commercial option, the goal is the same: a healthy, happy flock that rewards you with delicious farm-fresh eggs. And of course, those chicken snuggles are a pretty great bonus too!

Waterers In Winter

Brrrr. It’s cold out.  A new flock owner soon learns that subfreezing weather presents the challenge of keeping the chicken’s water liquid when mother nature wants to turn it to ice.

 

Chickens have an amazing ability to thrive in cold weather, but they must have liquid water to drink. They can’t consume ice or snow and must be able to drink liquid water many times every day.

 

Years ago, our coop lacked electricity. During cold spells we carried a bucket of warm water to the flock every couple of hours to replace one starting to ice over. Replacing water frequently works to keep hens hydrated, but today many people are at work or school for long hours and can’t frequently carry water to the hens.

 

Electric heated waterers make the task easy and reduce the need to make many daily trips to the coop with a fresh bucket of warm water. Anyone with a coop lacking electricity might seriously consider hiring an electrician to run power to it.  Electricity can be used to keep water liquid, power a coop light, and is just plain handy for many tasks that require power tools.  It’s also helpful to visit the coop after dark and switch on an overhead light.

 

The Pros and Cons of Different Types of Heated Waterers

 

Many types of electrically heated waterers are on the market. All work but some are easier to use than others.  We’ve tried several types over the years made by different companies. The following isn’t a review of any particular brand but analyzes the pros and cons of different types.

 

Heated Pet Bowls: These are made to keep the family dog’s water ice free, and they work well for poultry.

Pro:

  • Readily available. They are sold in most pet stores and come in a variety of sizes.
  • Fairly inexpensive.
  • Effective down to subzero temperatures.

Con:

  • Have a large water surface area, which speeds evaporation and allows dirt to easily enter. They need frequent cleaning and refilling.
  • Are hard to carry when filled with water. Require two hands to hold and carry them from the faucet. We find it easiest to carry the waterer empty and fill it from a bucket once the bowl is placed in the coop.

 

Heated buckets:

Pro:

  • Hold more water than pet bowls and have a slightly smaller surface.
  • Simple to refill. They are easy to carry from the faucet to the coop when filled with water.

Con:

  • Harder to find. Often only sold in farm stores.

 

Heated Platform:

Pro:

  • Work well with waterers designed for warm weather use, so no need to buy

new waterers.

  • Keep large five-to-eight-gallon waterers ice free so the need to refill is less frequent.
  • Small surface area reduces evaporation and the entry of dirt.

Con:

  • Large capacity waterers are hard to fill with cold hands and are heavy to carry. We clean the waterer at the faucet (outdoor or indoor) and place it empty in the coop.  Then we fill it with water carried in buckets.

 

Immersion Heaters:  We have never used one of these but see them for sale at farm stores. Many are made to keep stock tanks and other large containers open so cattle and horses can drink. Smaller ones can be used to keep buckets ice free in a chicken coop.

Pro:

  • Work with many types of bucket and other containers

Con:

  • May be too large for most henhouse waterers and don’t work with large capacity gravity type waterers.

 

 

Safety

 

Electricity makes caring for chickens easier all year and especially during cold weather but it must be used carefully. Safety guidelines include:

 

  • Avoid extension cords. Position waterers close to outlets so the waterer’s cord reaches it, avoiding the need for an extension cord.
  • Keep electrical cords and connections dry and away from combustible items.
  • Keep electrical connections and cords away from chickens and other animals.
    • Most water heaters have armored wires to keep animals from chewing or pecking them, but keep as much of it away from chickens as possible.

 

Laying hens need to drink plenty of clean water throughout the day to stay hydrated. Keeping liquid water available is important, and electric waterers make it easy.

Don’t Roast Your Roosters: The Warm Truth About Heat Lamps in the Coop

When the mercury drops and your chickens start looking at you like you’ve personally caused winter, the temptation to hang a big red heat lamp over the roost grows strong. But before you turn your coop into a KFC test kitchen, let’s talk heat safety, feathers, and fire hazards.

 

The Hot Facts

 

Heat lamps are the old standby for chicken keepers everywhere, and for good reason—they’re cheap, simple, and effective. The bad news? They can also be a feathered fireball waiting to happen. Most coop fires start because those clamp lamps get jostled or knocked loose by a curious hen, landing in the bedding. Dry pine shavings plus a 250-watt bulb equals an impromptu bonfire. Not to mention, coops can be pretty dusty,which also is a huge fire hazard.

Chill Out (Literally)

 

Chickens handle cold a lot better than most people think. With proper insulation, draft control, and dry bedding, most flocks do just fine in temps well below freezing. Think of them as tiny, feathery space heaters that huddle together for warmth. Unless you’re raising tropical breeds or dealing with subzero Arctic conditions, your girls probably don’t need artificial heat—just a draft-free coop and decent airflow.

 

If You Must Bring the Heat

 

If you do decide to use a heat source, go the safer route. Ceramic heat emitters give steady warmth without light. Radiant or flat-panel coop heaters mount securely and reduce fire risk dramatically. Always:

  • Mount heat sources using solid brackets, not clip-on clamps.
  • Keep at least 18 inches of clearance from straw, wood, or feathers.
  • Use heavy-duty cords and secure them away from beaks.
  • Install a thermostat or timer—you don’t want the coop turning into a sauna.

 

Final Cluck

 

So, can you use a heat lamp? Yes—but it’s a bit like juggling chainsaws. It can be done safely, but only with care, planning, and a healthy fear of sparks. If you want to keep your hens cozy without burning the place down, focus on insulation, proper ventilation, and maybe a chicken cuddle puddle or two.

In the end, happy hens lay eggs. Crispy ones, not so much.

What Are Mini Chickens? (And Why People Love Them)

If you’ve ever seen my tiny chicken, Tinkerbell, you know why people stop and ask, “What kind of chicken is she?” Mini chickens, or bantam chickens, are quickly becoming a backyard favorite. They’re adorable, full of personality and perfect for people with smaller yards or urban setups. But what exactly are mini chickens, and are they right for you?

 

What is a Mini Chicken?

Mini chickens, also called bantams, are smaller versions of standard chicken breeds, or naturally small breeds all on their own. Most adult mini chickens weigh just 2 to 3 pounds, about one-third the size of regular chickens. Despite their size, they strut with just as much confidence as their full-sized cousins.

Mini chicken bantam - Mille Fleur d’Uccle with frizzle feathers

There are two main types of mini chickens:

  • True Bantams: Naturally miniature breeds that don’t have a larger counterpart, like the Sebright, Japanese Bantam, Dutch Bantam and Mille Fleur d’Uccle.

  • Miniature Versions of Standard Breeds: These are bred down from larger chickens such as Miniature Cochins, Mini Silkies and Mini Orpingtons.

 

Why People Love Mini Chickens

While mini chickens don’t lay as many or as large eggs as standard breeds, they make up for it with big personalities and charm. Most bantam eggs are about half the size of a normal egg, but they’re still delicious and nutritious.

 

People keep mini chickens because they:

  • Take up less space in the coop and yard

  • Eat less feed, saving money

  • Have friendly, social temperaments

  • Add variety and color to a flock

  • Are great for kids and beginners due to their size and docile nature

 

Honestly, it’s easy to see why they’ve become the stars of small-flock chicken keeping!

 

How to Care for Mini Chickens

Even though they’re smaller, mini chickens need the same essentials as full-sized breeds, just scaled down a bit.

 

Provide a safe, predator-proof coop with about 2–3 square feet per bird inside and at least 8 square feet per chicken in the outdoor run. Feed them a balanced chicken diet and make sure fresh water is always available.

 

Because of their size, mini chickens are more sensitive to cold weather and predators. Add extra bedding in the winter and reinforce the coop to keep out raccoons, hawks and other threats. They’re also social creatures, so keep them in small groups for company.

 

And despite their dainty looks, mine hold their own in the pecking order, especially Tinkerbell, who’s convinced she’s the Queen of the Coop!

 

Are Mini Chickens Right for You?

If you live in town, have limited space or simply love the idea of pint-sized chickens running around your yard, mini chickens might be the perfect fit. They’re ideal for urban homesteaders, families with kids and backyard chicken enthusiasts who want something unique, manageable and endlessly entertaining.

 

In my flock, I keep Mille Fleur d’Uccles, Bantam Buff Brahmas and Silkies, and they mix beautifully with my standard hens. They may be small, but they bring huge personality and joy to the coop!

 

Until next time,

 

—The Wing Lady

Sunflower Seeds for Chickens a Protein Boost During Molting

Molting is a natural and essential part of a chicken’s life! It’s when they shed old feathers and grow new ones. Some hens molt lightly, while others go through a dramatic hard molt where it looks like they exploded feathers everywhere. Either way, it can be stressful for both the flock and you but it’s completely normal!

 

Because feathers are made mostly of protein, molting requires a lot of energy. During this time, chickens often slow down or pause egg production as their bodies shift nutrients toward feather regrowth. Without enough protein in their diet, molting can take longer and feather quality may suffer. That’s why offering the right nutrition makes such a big difference!

 

One of my favorite easy, natural protein boosters? Sunflower seeds!

hand holding chicken treats containing black sunflower seeds for molting. chickens in the background pecking at treats
 

Why Sunflower Seeds Help During Molt

Black sunflower seeds are a nutritious, flock-friendly snack packed with:

  • High-quality protein for feather regrowth

  • Healthy fats for energy

  • Vitamin E and B vitamins for immunity

  • Antioxidants for overall feather and skin health

 

Unlike striped sunflower seeds, black oil sunflower seeds have thinner shells, making them easier for chickens to crack and digest, no extra effort needed.

 

How to Feed Sunflower Seeds to Your Flock

Sunflower seeds are a treat, not a replacement for a balanced, high-quality layer feed. They are higher in fat, so moderation is key. A little goes a long way!

 

How I Serve Sunflower Seeds: I actually use Happy Tract, which already has black oil sunflower seeds mixed in, along with essential oils and other gut-supporting ingredients. This way, they’re not just getting the protein for feathers, they’re also getting digestive support and immune support when they need it most. I like to scatter Happy Tract in the run so the girls can scratch around and forage while they snack. It keeps them active and occupied!

 

General Guideline: A small handful of just sunflower seeds or a couple of handfuls of Happy Tract per flock per day during molt is plenty.

 

Extra Benefits During Molting Season

Because sunflower seeds support your chickens inside and out, you’ll often see:

  • Softer, shinier feathers

  • Stronger immune response

  • Better energy (molting is tiring!)

  • More comfortable feather regrowth

     

To really support your flock during molt, I pair Happy Tract and other protein-rich snacks with Flock Fixer in their water. The vitamins, electrolytes, and immune support in Flock Fixer help keep them hydrated and comfortable while feathers grow back in.

 

My molting formula: Good feed + added protein + hydration support = a smoother molt.

The result? Happier hens and beautifully restored feathers!

 

Until next time,

– The Wing Lady

Keeping the Flock Fresh

We need a steady supply of eggs from our backyard coop. Doing it successfully takes planning and requires tough decisions.

 

Each spring we buy five or six baby female chicks from a nearby farm store. The tiny birds had been hatched just a few days earlier at Hoover’s Hatchery and quickly delivered to the store. Soon our tiny peepers are happily housed in our brooder.

 

Why six new chicks?

 

We like to have about 12 laying chickens to lay enough eggs for us, and we like to give many to friends and neighbors. To keep the flock fresh, we replace about half of our adult chickens when they are about 18 months old, although in some years we stretch it and replace half the flock when they are about 30 months old.

 

Young pullets start laying when they are about five months old. They’ll lay plenty of eggs for the next 12 to 15 months. Then they’ll take a break, shed their old feathers and grow a new wardrobe. By mid to late fall they’ll start laying again, but not quite as many eggs as in their first lay cycle.

 

By the time hens are two to three years old their egg production starts dropping and they never lay while molting and growing new feathers. That means fewer eggs in the fall and early winter when we want plenty for fresh eating and baking.

So, we keep our flock fresh. Every spring we buy new replacement chicks that will start laying about when our older birds begin molting and their laying slows. It keeps plenty of eggs coming into our house, but creates a problem.

 

Our coop is big enough for about a dozen hens. Town ordinances often allow residents to keep only six hens. Adding new layers into an existing flock either makes the coop too crowded or violates the ordnance. What do you do?

 

We refresh our flock by rehoming about half of our older hens each fall, just before we add our new birds into the flock. Previous blogs and films detail how we do this, but to make it simple we post an ad on Craigs List and Facebook Marketplace offering older layers for a tiny price. Buyers seem to appear immediately and take our old birds to add to their flock.

 

It’s sad. Every year we need to say goodbye to some of our faithful layers, but we try to make sure they go to the coop of another person who will enjoy and appreciate them.

 

Soon after the older hens leave our new pullets begin laying, so we have plenty of fall and winter eggs.

Rainbow Flock Research Fun

Every spring we face a dilemma.  It’s tough.  We only need to buy five or six pullet chicks from so many different types.  So we study the Hoover’s Hatchery website to choose breeds to buy at our  nearby farm store.    

 

How can we possibly choose the right mix?  There are Brahmas, New Hampshire Reds, Wyandottes, Orpingtons, Sussex, hybrids and a dizzying array of other appealing breeds.  We’d like to buy one chick of every breed, but that won’t work. Our coop is small.  

 

Part of our decision is easy. We like large bodied calm brown egg laying hens,  so we scratch Leghorns and other white egg breeds off our list.  That still leaves dozens of brown egg layers to choose from.  Any would fit our needs but we must whittle choices down to a half dozen. 

We always create a rainbow flock to add fun with our chicken hobby.  Diversity is the key. A rainbow flock includes breeds that look different from each other.  So, every year we buy one each of distinctly different feathered breeds.   

 

For  example in one year  we’ll buy one chick that grows red feathers, like a Rhode Island Red, one that has black feathers, like an Australorp, a mostly white feathered Delaware, a feather legged Brahma, and a gorgeous Silver Laced Wyandotte with contrasty patterned feathers.   

 

Every year our order is different but it always has a mix of different looking chickens.   That helps us have fun with our flock.    

 

Rainbow Fun

 

Every hen in our flock is distinctive and easy to identify. Like people, hens are individuals.  Being able to easily tell one bird from the others adds to our chicken fun. The Rhode Island Red in our current flock, for example, is an early riser. She’s always the first girl off the roost in the morning, while our Australorp likes to sleep in. She’s usually the last to leave the roost when the sun comes up. Our Delaware is athletic.  She races around the run and seems to love flapping up to her roost for exercise. Our Buff Cochin’s different. She’s content to slowly stroll about and often is the first hen to rest in the shade on a hot sunny day.  

 

If all of our hens were of the same breed and looked nearly identical we’d have a tough time pegging these interesting traits to an individual bird. Seeing these differences is a joy, and sometimes is downright useful.    

 

We’re lucky to work from home, so often we take breaks from our computers and visit the coop during the day. Observation is a great way to learn from our hens and an outstanding way to help children learn.    

 

Backyard Coop Research

 

A backyard chicken flock can be used to help children learn the basics of scientific research while having a great time. Don’t have a child?  These projects are fun for adults.  Here is a research project easily done at home with a rainbow flock: 

 

Do hens make friends?  Scientists don’t spend time trying to figure this out, but the owner of a small flock can.  

 

Hypothesis:   Hens have friends.  They like to sleep next to their friends every night.

 

Equipment needed:   A small flock of chickens that don’t look alike and a cell phone.

 

Procedure:  Enter the coop after dark each evening for a week. Bring a cell phone and snap  a picture of roosting hens.  After a week, compare all seven pictures. 

 

  • Does each hen sleep in the same spot on the roost every night?
  • Is there a sleep pattern?
  • Night after night do the same hens sleep next to the same flockmates?

 

Conclusion:  What is the sleep pattern?  Do chickens prefer to sleep near certain “friends”?

Conclusion:    Chickens (do/don’t sleep near the same birds each night.  

 

This simple experiment can help a child learn skills in observation, recording data, and drawing conclusions. It’s basic science, but it is also fun. It’s fun to do even without kids!

 

What conclusions did you draw from your basic research?  Please share the results here https://form.jotform.com/253024867453056

What is the Purpose of a Crop in Chickens?

Have you ever noticed at the end of a long, lazy day of foraging that your chickens have a little bulge in their chest area? That’s their crop, a cute, specialized storage pouch that plays a big role in how chickens digest their food!
graphic showing where a chicken's crop is

Understanding the crop can help backyard chicken keepers better care for their flock, spot health issues early and keep hens thriving year-round.

What is a Chicken’s Crop?

The crop is an expandable, muscular pouch located at the lower end of the chicken’s esophagus, just before the stomach. Its main job is to act as a temporary storage space for food that’s been swallowed but hasn’t yet moved deeper into the digestive system.

Throughout the day, chickens peck and snack constantly. The crop allows them to gather and store food quickly while they forage. Later, as they rest, the food moves on through their digestive tract at a slower, more efficient pace.

How the Crop Helps Chickens Digest Food

While in the crop, food begins to moisten and soften, making it easier to digest once it reaches the stomach. From there, the process looks like this:

  1. Crop – holds food temporarily and softens it.

  2. Proventriculus – the stomach where initial digestion begins.

  3. Gizzard – where food is ground up with grit or small rocks to aid in digestion.

     

The crop typically empties overnight as the chicken digests while sleeping. A healthy crop should be flat and empty in the morning.

When Crop Problems Arise

When the crop doesn’t empty properly, chickens can develop health issues:

  • Impacted Crop: Food gets stuck and can’t move through the digestive system, causing discomfort.

  • Sour Crop: The crop becomes stagnant, allowing infection to develop. This can lead to secondary issues like water belly, which may cause organ failure and even death if untreated.

Fun fact: I’ve only ever had one chicken with sour crop, but it was a great reminder of how important daily checks are. Sometimes, these issues happen when a hen picks up something in the yard that can’t pass through her system.

How to Keep a Chicken’s Crop Healthy

Keeping your flock’s crop healthy really comes down to good daily care:

  • Offer a balanced diet with quality feed and grit.

  • Provide clean, fresh water at all times.

  • Watch for signs of crop impaction or sour crop (such as a squishy, full crop in the morning).

  • Maintain a clean coop and foraging area.

A big part of how I’ve kept my flock healthy for years is by adding Chicken E-lixir to their water daily. I’ve used it for over seven years and have had an extremely healthy flock!

Why the Crop Matters

The crop may seem like a small detail, but it plays a huge role in a chicken’s overall health. It allows chickens to eat quickly, digest efficiently and maintain the energy they need for their active lifestyle.

Raising backyard chickens isn’t always easy, but regular health checks, good nutrition, proper hydration and a clean environment go a long way in keeping your birds healthy and happy.

Until next time,

– The Wing Lady

All About the Wyandotte Chicken Breed

Thinking of adding Wyandotte chickens to your backyard flock? These gorgeous birds are known for their striking laced feathers, cold-hardy nature, and dependable egg production. But as with any breed, every chicken has its own personality, and some can surprise you!
 
silver laced wyandotte hen and rooster
 

History of the Wyandotte Chicken

The Wyandotte chicken breed was developed in the United States in the late 1800s. They were named after the Wyandotte Native American tribe and created by crossing several breeds, including the Dark Brahma and Silver Spangled Hamburg.

 

The goal? To produce a hardy, cold-resistant bird that could provide both eggs and meat. Mission accomplished! The American Poultry Association officially recognized Wyandottes in 1883, and they’ve been backyard favorites ever since.

 

Egg Production & Purpose

Wyandottes are considered a dual-purpose breed, valued for both eggs and meat. On average, hens lay around 150-200 medium-to-large brown eggs per year. That’s steady production for families who want a reliable layer.

 

Their size also makes them a good meat bird, with roosters weighing about 8.5 pounds and hens about 6.5 pounds.

 
silver laced wyandotte brown chicken eggs in a hand

Picture credit: Homesteading Hippy

Varieties of Wyandotte Chickens

One of the most-loved features of the Wyandotte is its feathering. The laced pattern, especially in the Silver-Laced variety, is absolutely stunning in the backyard!

 

Common Wyandotte varieties include:

  • Silver Laced

  • Golden Laced

  • Blue

 

Less common, but still beautiful, varieties include Buff, White, Partridge and Black.

 

My girls were Silver-Laced, and were strikingly beautiful with their red rose combs and crisp black-and-white lacing.

 

Temperament & Personality

Wyandottes are generally described as friendly, calm, and docile, making them a great choice for beginners and families with children. They’re usually good with other chickens, though like mine, some can take a spot high on the pecking order.

 

Cold-Hardy Backyard Birds

If you live in a cold climate like I do here in Minnesota, Wyandottes are a smart choice. Their rose combs are less prone to frostbite, and their dense feathering helps them stay warm through long winters.

 

Until next time,

-The Wing Lady

What Are the Top 3 Diseases That Affect Backyard Chickens?

The internet is full of beautiful chicken coops, elegantly feathered chickens and chicken keepers who are followed around by sunbeams and gorgeous landscapes. And, while some of these things are absolutely beautiful and out there no doubt, raising backyard chickens isn’t all rainbows and butterflies. There are plenty of yucky things that can plague the coop and the feathered friends who live there. Today we’re going to look at the top three diseases that affect chickens today!

 
Chickens in the grass foraging. Black chicken and white chicken

Marek’s Disease

Marek’s disease in chickens is a viral infection caused by the Marek’s disease virus (MDV), which affects the nervous system and can lead to tumors in various organs. It primarily affects younger birds (typically under 16 weeks old) and is highly contagious.

 

Symptoms: 

  • Lethargy and depression

  • Loss of appetite

  • Weakness or lameness in one or both legs

  • Flicking of the wings or neck and unusual posture

  • Sudden death in some cases

 

Prevention: 

Vaccination is the most effective way to prevent Marek’s disease. Vaccines are usually given at a young age. Maintaining good biosecurity practices, such as limiting visitors and keeping the flock’s environment clean, can also help reduce the risk of exposure.

 

Treatment:  

There is no specific treatment for Marek’s disease. Once a bird is infected, it cannot be cured. While super sad, the best approach is to cull infected birds to prevent the spread of the virus within the flock.

 

Coccidiosis

Coccidiosis is caused by a parasite that affects the intestinal tract of chickens. It is particularly prevalent in young chicks and can lead to severe diarrhea and dehydration if not properly managed.

 

Symptoms: 

  • Watery, bloody diarrhea

  • Lethargy and weakness

  • Poor appetite

  • Weight loss

  • Ruffled feathers

 

Prevention: 

To prevent coccidiosis, a clean living environment is a must, as the parasites thrive in wet and dirty conditions. Providing adequate space and avoiding overcrowding can also help minimize the risk. Additionally, vaccination is available in some cases. However, I use Chicken E-lixir with organic oregano essential oil which combats bad bugs!

 

Treatment: 

Treatment typically involves administering medications that inhibit the growth of parasites through feed or water. For most cases, supportive care with hydration and electrolytes may be necessary. I’ve never experienced coccidiosis in my flock, but if I did, I’d definitely give them Flock Fixer. I use Flock Fixer on a regular basis with my crew in times of stress and to give them the extra boost they need!

 

Respiratory Diseases

Respiratory diseases, such as Infectious Bronchitis (IB) and Newcastle Disease (ND), can severely impact the respiratory system of chickens. These diseases are highly contagious and can spread quickly within a flock.

 

Symptoms: 

  • Coughing or sneezing

  • Nasal discharge or eye discharge

  • Swollen sinuses

  • Difficulty breathing

  • Reduced egg production in hens

 

Prevention:  

Good biosecurity practices are crucial for preventing respiratory diseases. This includes maintaining a clean facility, minimizing stress and avoiding the introduction of new birds without quarantine. I honestly never add to my flock this way. I only add to it through growing chicks. But, if you do add adult birds to your flock, a good rule of thumb is to have them on your property separated from the others for 30 days before you integrate them. That gives you plenty of time to make sure they didn’t bring any pests or disease with them. 

 

Treatment:  

Treatment generally focuses on supportive care, such as providing a comfortable environment and good nutrition. In some cases, antibiotics may be used to treat secondary bacterial infections. And, here again, I’d use Flock Fixer

 

Keeping backyard chickens has been one of my very best yes’s, but it’s essential to be aware of the potential health issues that can arise. By understanding the top diseases that affect chickens, you can take proactive steps to prevent outbreaks and ensure the health and happiness of your flock. So much of it comes down to coop cleanliness, enough space and good biosecurity. The good has far outweighed the bad for us here, but a little research definitely goes a long way. 

 

Until next time,

 

-The Wing Lady

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