Deworming chickens is an essential part of maintaining a healthy flock. Worm infestations can lead to weight loss, decreased egg production and even serious health complications if left untreated. While worms are a common issue for chickens, the good news is that with proper care and prevention, you can keep your flock healthy and happy.

Let’s dive into how chickens get worms, signs of infestations and the best ways to prevent and treat them.

How Do Chickens Get Worms?

Chickens can easily pick up worms from the environment. They are often exposed to worm eggs or larvae in soil, droppings or contaminated food and water. Free-ranging flocks are especially at risk because it’s impossible to control everything they peck at while foraging.

While the risk of worms is always present, the benefits of free-ranging—like happier, healthier birds—outweigh the downsides for many chicken keepers. By focusing on prevention, you can minimize the risks and keep your flock worm-free.

Symptoms of Worms in Chickens

Spotting the signs of worms early is key to effective treatment. Common symptoms include:

• Weight loss

• Decreased egg production

• Diarrhea

• Dull, lackluster feathers

• Lethargy

• Visible worms in droppings

If you notice these symptoms, it’s time to take action. Worms in droppings or eggs are a clear indicator of infestation, but other symptoms may overlap with other chicken health issues. Monitor your flock closely to determine the root cause.

Preventing Worms in Chickens

The best way to deal with worms is to prevent them in the first place. Here are some proactive steps to keep your flock healthy:

• Start Strong: A healthy immune system is your flock’s first line of defense. Products like Chicken E-lixir, which contains oregano essential oil, can help support gut health and naturally deter worms. Oregano is known for its antiparasitic properties and helps prevent worms from attaching to the gut wall.

• Quarantine New Birds: If you bring in new chickens, quarantine them for at least 30 days before introducing them to your flock. This precaution prevents worms, lice, mites and other diseases from spreading.

• Clean and Hygienic Coop: Regularly clean your coop and remove droppings to reduce the risk of worms. Use Coop Recuperate to keep bedding clean and dry while controlling moisture and odors. A clean coop creates a less friendly environment for parasites!

• Natural Preventatives: Incorporate garlic, pumpkin seeds and essential oils like oregano into your flock’s diet. While these haven’t been scientifically proven to kill worms, ingredients like essential oils can irritate worms and help prevent them from latching onto the gut wall where they can cause damage to birds.

 

How to Treat Worms in Chickens

If your flock does end up with worms, acting quickly is critical. Here’s what to do:

1. Treat the Whole Flock

If one chicken has worms, assume the rest are at risk and treat the entire flock. Chickens often share food, water and spaces where worms can spread.

2. Deworming Options

• Commercial Dewormers: A reliable way to treat worm infestations that come in liquid, powder or pellet forms. They’re highly effective, but it’s super important to follow the instructions carefully—no winging it here! Be mindful not to overuse dewormers, as this can lead to parasite resistance (yikes!), where worms build up a tolerance to the medication. Many dewormers also have an egg withdrawal period, so you’ll need to hold off on using the eggs for a little while during treatment.

• Natural Remedies: For a gentler approach, try the natural options I mentioned above. However, it’s important to remember that the quality and quantity of these natural remedies matter. Always use food-grade ingredients and consult with a poultry health professional if you’re unsure about the correct dosage.

• Veterinary Guidance: Severe cases may require veterinary intervention. A poultry vet can recommend the best treatment plan and proper dosing.

 

3. Manage the Environment

Keep the coop clean, provide fresh water daily and replace bedding regularly. This limits re-infestation and creates a healthier living environment for your flock.

Prevention is always better than treatment when it comes to worms in chickens. Start by building strong immune systems, maintaining a clean and healthy coop and using natural products like Chicken E-lixir to support gut health naturally. If worms do show up, act quickly and consult a poultry health professional if needed!

 

Until next time,

–The Wing Lady

I was sitting in the chicken run last week watching my flock scratch around the dirt. It got me thinking about how fast they ate the grass that was once under their feet. Chickens love greens, grass and plants! Free-ranging gives their nutrition a boost and cuts down on food costs. However, if your run looks like mine, there isn’t much green (or any!) for them to pluck.

Quick-growing plants can help improve soil quality, reduce mud and keep your chickens happy and healthy. They’re also a great boredom buster for chickens in confined runs!

Why Add Fast-Growing Plants to Your Chicken Run?

This ground was once luscious, green grass! Chickens are tough on greenery, and your run can quickly turn into a dust patch. Adding quick growing plants to your chicken run does more than make it look nice. It supports natural foraging behaviors, enriches their diet and even helps maintain better soil conditions.

The trickiest part? Getting the plants to grow before your chickens get to them! A screen cover or a blocked-off area where they can go in and out under your control works great.

Best Quick-Growing Plants for Chickens

If your chicken run is looking a little bare, these quick-growing plants for chickens can freshen things up fast while keeping your flock happy and busy.

Clover

Clover is a favorite for chickens. It grows quickly, fixes nitrogen in the soil, improves soil health and provides a mild, nutritious snack. It germinates in about 7-10 days. Plant the clover seeds in a sunny spot and keep the soil moist.

Alfalfa

Alfalfa sprouts rapidly and is rich in protein. It’s great for both free-range and confined chicken runs and encourages natural foraging. This quick-growing plant is ready to graze in about 10-14 days. Alfalfa prefers full sun and well-drained soil.

Sunflowers

Sunflowers aren’t technically fast-growing, but once sprouted, they grow quickly. Chickens love the seeds, and the tall plants give shade and shelter. I’m going to plant these on the outside of my run right next to the fence. They sprout in about 7 days and reach a good height in 3-4 weeks. Make sure you plant them in well-draining soil and give them space to grow tall!

Radishes

Radishes have edible greens that chickens enjoy, and they grow very fast. Sometimes ready to eat in just over 3 weeks. Plus, have you ever put radishes at the bottom of a roast in a slow cooker? They taste just like potatoes but without all the carbs!

Mustard Greens

Mustard greens grow rapidly, are cold-hardy and add variety to your chickens’ diet. They take a little longer but are great to grow in cooler seasons. Mustard greens are ready to harvest in about 30 days.

Barley Grass

Barley grass is highly nutritious, grows fast and chickens love grazing on it. It germinates in just 2-3 days! The best thing about barley grass is that it regrows multiple times, giving you more bang for your buck.

Tips for Growing Greens for Chickens

Obviously, growing greens for your chickens doesn’t replace a high-quality feed. It enhances their diet though and gives them something fun to do in the run if they can’t be out free-ranging. Chickens can get bored, and that’s when behavior issues show up in a flock. This is a great boredom buster for them!

If you don’t feel like battling the chickens and don’t have a great blockade system, you can grow most of these in pots as well and then just feed them to your chickens that way. Either way, I think you’ll find adding quick-growing greens to your flock’s diet will enhance their life and add to the deliciousness of their eggs!

Until next time,

–The Wing Lady

Every spring, I get the itch to add to my backyard flock! All it takes is one peek over the edge of the chick brooders at our local farm supply store and I am hooked! While it is hard to resist those cute little fluff balls, it is important to remember they grow fast and so do their instincts.

One behavior that surprises many first-time chicken owners is how quickly chicks start to establish a pecking order. Yes, it is a real thing, not just a saying, and it starts right in the brooder. But why do chicks peck at each other? It is their natural way of figuring out who is in charge. Each chick defends its place, and sometimes it can get a little rough.

If you are paying close attention, you will start to notice who the top chick is early on. It is fascinating to watch, but it can also be a little shocking when things get out of hand. That is exactly what happened to one of my chicks last year.

A Real-Life Story of Pecking Injury and Recovery

I had my chicks shipped from Hoover’s Hatchery and they arrived strong, healthy and full of energy. On the second day in the brooder, I did a routine check and noticed something was off. One of my sweet little chicks, Cheddar, was standing alone with her head down. Suddenly, two other chicks rushed over and started pecking at her face, right near her eyes.

My heart sank.

When I scooped her up, I could see both of her eyes were swollen and bloody. Honestly, I was not even sure if one of her eyeballs was still intact. I was horrified.

I brought her into the house, kept her warm and gently cleaned the blood from her face. She nestled into a blanket on my chest and just slept. I did not want her to suffer, but I also did not want to give up on her.

How One Wound Spray Helped My Chick

I decided to keep Cheddar separate but nearby. I placed her in a clear tote inside the brooder so she could still hear and see her flock mates. Then I pulled out my favorite recovery products: Flock Fixer, First Peep and most importantly, Bye-Bye Boo-Boos spray.

I dipped a Q-tip in the spray and gently applied it to her eyes. She did not even flinch. In fact, she would just snuggle in and fall asleep. Bye-Bye Boo-Boos was a lifesaver. It soothed her wounds without stinging and helped her eyes heal beautifully.

Within a week and a half, Cheddar was back to her normal self. Her eyes had healed and I slowly began reintegrating her into the flock. Today, she is a thriving, happy hen and we share a special bond that goes beyond the brooder.

Here’s Cheddar, left to right, on her healing journey. The first photo shows her just after I found her injured in the brooder. The second was taken about two hours after applying Bye-Bye Boo-Boos. The third is two days into using the spray and the final photo shows Cheddar today!

Gentle, Effective and Egg-Safe

I now keep Bye-Bye Boo-Boos spray on hand at all times. Whether it is a cut, scrape or even a mild case of Bumblefoot, this spray is my go-to. It does not sting, it is safe for all ages of poultry and best of all, there is no egg withdrawal period. That means I can use it even on my laying hens without worry.

If you are putting together a chicken first-aid kit, this spray is a must-have. It is easy to apply, comforting for your flock and works quickly when your birds need support the most.

Chick Days Can Be Rough

So why do chicks peck at each other? It is their way of figuring out their place in the flock. While pecking order behavior is natural, it can sometimes lead to injuries. Having the right products on hand can make all the difference when things get intense.

Taking care of your chicks from day one sets them up for a strong and healthy life. Keep watching, keep loving and keep your first-aid supplies close. You never know when one of your little fluff balls might need extra help.

Happy Chick Days!

The Wing Lady

When to switch chicken feed is a common question for new backyard chicken keepers. I get it! I had a lot of the same questions when I started out.

Knowing when to switch chicken feed is essential to ensure your flock remains healthy and productive throughout their life stages. But, before we dive into the timing of switching feeds, it’s important to understand the various types of feed available for each stage of life.

Starter Feed (0–6 Weeks)

Starter feed is a high-protein option (18-24% protein) formulated for chicks from hatch until about six weeks old. It’s packed with essential nutrients to support rapid growth and development. I also incorporate First Peep into my chicks’ starter feed for an extra boost to their immune, digestive and respiratory systems.

Grower Feed (6–16 Weeks)

Around six weeks of age, it’s time to transition to grower feed. This feed contains slightly less protein (16-18%) to support steady growth without promoting excessive weight gain too quickly.

Layer Feed (16–20 Weeks and Beyond)

Once hens start laying eggs, usually around 16–20 weeks, it’s time for layer feed. Layer feed includes extra calcium (and around 16-18% protein) to support strong eggshells and provide essential nutrients for laying hens. Always choose a high-quality layer feed—you’ll see the difference in your egg production!

Finisher Feed (For Meat Birds)

For meat birds, finisher feed is given during the final weeks before processing. This feed is high in protein and energy to promote weight gain. This makes them chunky! So, be sure to monitor your flock closely during this stage to ensure their health.

When to Switch Chicken Feed

Based on Age

The most straightforward factor for switching feed is your chickens’ age. Follow the general guidelines for feed types, but don’t stress if things overlap a little. For example, when integrating flocks of different ages, some younger chickens might start layer feed slightly earlier—and that’s okay.

Signs Your Chickens Need a Feed Change

Sometimes, your flock will show you it’s time for a change. Look for these signs:

• Decline in Egg Production: This could indicate a nutritional deficiency. Switching to a high-quality layer feed may help.

• Molting or Poor Feather Development: Upping protein during molting helps your chickens recover faster.

• Digestive Issues: This might call for a different type of feed or gradual feed changes to prevent upset.

• Weight Changes: Significant weight gain or loss might mean your flock’s current feed isn’t meeting their needs.

Managing Mixed Flocks and Special Needs

If you have a mixed flock or a sick chicken requiring extra nutrients like calcium or protein, managing feed can get tricky. Chickens are surprisingly intuitive and often eat what their bodies need. However, in special cases, you may need to separate sick or weaker birds temporarily to give them focused care and reintroduce them to the flock as soon as possible.

Transitioning Feeds

Switching feeds too quickly can cause digestive upset. To ease the transition:

• Mix the Old Feed with the New: Gradually increase the ratio of new feed over several days.

• Monitor Behavior: Ensure your flock continues to eat and behaves normally.

 

I also recommend adding Chicken E-lixir, a daily vitamin supplement, to their water during feed transitions. It’s an easy way to ensure your chickens are getting the nutrients they need.

Other Considerations

Chickens can be picky! My flock protested when I switched from crumble to pellets, but I stuck with it because pellets are less messy and keep the coop cleaner. While they didn’t love the change at first, they adjusted and are now thriving.

Keep it Simple

Switching chicken feed doesn’t have to be complicated. With a little research and by keeping an eye on your flock’s health and behavior, you’ll master feed transitions in no time.

Until next time,

–The Wing Lady

It’s chick season! Whether you’re adding to your flock or just dreaming about new feathered friends, now is the perfect time to explore rare chicken breeds! My go-to hatchery is Hoover’s Hatchery in Iowa. They consistently provide high-quality chicks, and some of my all-time favorite birds have come from their selection.

Did you know that Hoover’s Hatchery offers 44 rare breeds? If you’re looking to add unique and colorful birds to your flock, explore their stunning selection of rare varieties!

However, Hoover’s Hatchery is no longer accepting chick orders for 2025. Due to high demand and the ongoing impact of avian flu, many hatcheries are overwhelmed with orders, so check with your local farm supply store to see what breeds they can get for you!

My Favorite Rare Chicken Breeds

I’ve raised quite a few rare breeds over the years, and it’s safe to say chicken math is real! Here are some of my absolute favorites:

• Barnevelder

• Blue Andalusian

• Marans (all varieties!)

• Jersey Giants

• Olive Eggers Cream Legbar

• Prairie Bluebell Egger

• Sapphire Splash

• Polish

• Salmon Faverolle

• Lavender Orpington

Each of these breeds brings something special to the coop, whether it’s their egg color, personality or stunning feather patterns. But if I had to pick my top three, here’s what I’d choose.

1. Polish Chickens: The Comedians of the Coop

Polish chickens might not be prolific layers, but what they lack in egg production, they make up for in personality! With their wild crests and quirky behavior, they’re a must-have for any flock. These friendly and hilarious birds lay around 100 white eggs per year. If you decide to get a Polish chicken, consider getting two or three, they do best with a buddy!

2. Sapphire Splash: Stunning Looks & Exceptional Layers

If you love beautiful chickens that lay plenty of eggs, Sapphire Splash is a fantastic choice. These mottled beauties produce around 290 large brown eggs per year. They’re a perfect pick for anyone looking to increase egg production! Plus, their striking plumage makes them a standout in any backyard flock.

My girl, Paris, is a total stunner and such a sweetheart!

3. Lavender Orpingtons: Gentle, Beautiful and Reliable Layers

Lavender Orpingtons are among the most docile and friendly breeds out there. They’re known for their soft lavender-gray feathers, calm temperament and excellent egg production. They lay around 220 light brown eggs per year and are great for families or anyone looking for a quiet, gentle breed.

Until next time,

– The Wing Lady