Sourdough for Beginners

As the days get shorter and the weather eventually cools off, baking will once again be on my mind! I’ve taken a bit of a break during the hot summer months, but I am looking forward to reviving my sourdough starter and getting creative in the kitchen again. If you’re interested in sourdough, here are a few tips and tricks to help you have success!

First, if you’re a real sourdough beginner, I recommend starting with a ready to go starter instead of trying to make your own. You can make your own, but it’s pretty easy to get a starter from a friend. Most people with sourdough starters are happy to pass some on to friends! If you can’t find a start to share, you can also buy starter kits on amazon and at other retailers.

Once you have a starter, a few basic supplies will help you have good success.

Helpful, Basic Sourdough Supplies

A digital kitchen scale for accurate feeding

Cheesecloth for covering the jar

2 jars – one for the active starter and one for the discard

A wooden spoon or a silicone spatula

Rubber band for marking the starter on the jar


You can go crazy buying supplies for sourdough, but these items are the basics every aspiring sourdough baker needs.

Now that you have the starter and supplies, you have to feed it properly for effective baking.


How to Feed Sourdough Starter

Starter needs to be fed regularly. Active starter that you want to bake with needs to be fed every 12 hours until the starter has doubled. To feed active starter, begin by dumping half your starter in the discard jar. Next, weigh out the starter you have left, and then feed the same weight in water and high-quality all-purpose flour.

For instance, if you have 50 grams of starter, also feed 50 grams of water and 50 grams of flour. It’s important to take out half your starter each time before feeding, or you will end up with gallons of discard in your fridge. You can ask me how I learned this. LOL!

Mark the level of the starter in jar by putting a rubber band around the jar at the level of the starter. Keep this jar on the counter. Once the starter is nice and bubbly and the volume has doubled in the 12 hours between feedings, you’re ready to bake delicious sourdough bread! You should be able to tell if the volume has doubled if it rises well above the rubber band.

For trouble shooting and more sourdough starter tips, read my post, Sourdough Starter.


Discard starter

Discard starter (keep this jar refrigerated) is supposed to be fed once a week. Honestly, I’m not always good at feeding my discard, and with a few extra feedings it is possible to revive a hungry starter. What is important is that you also use up your discard! There are so many delicious ways to use discard, so don’t let it go to waste.


A few of our favorite ways to use sourdough discard include:

Sourdough Blueberry Crumb Cake

Sourdough Dinner Rolls

For Thanksgiving, Sourdough Stuffing with Roasted Red Onion, Sausage, and Kale

We also love to make pancakes, waffles, sourdough discard pizza crust and sourdough biscuits as well! And of course, sourdough bread is a staple at our house. My favorite sourdough bread recipe with sample baking timelines is right here!


If you have specific sourdough questions, please let me know! I’m always happy to help people have the best success with their sourdough baking!

Making it Easy: Avoiding Sore Backs and Tired Muscles

Tending chickens comes with plenty of rewards, but lugging heavy water and feed isn’t one of them. Lifting also risks a sore back and tired muscles.

Twenty and thirty somethings don’t bat an eye at physical chores, but small children, gray haired seniors, and anyone unable to hoist a 50-pound feed bag may shun keeping chickens. There’s good news.  Several techniques make moving heavy water, feed, and litter easier and safer.



Feed manufacturers know that many people aren’t able to lift a 50-pound bag, so they package the same product in smaller containers.  It’s easier to carry a ten-pound pouch than a 50-pound bag. But it comes at a cost. The smaller the bag the higher the per pound cost.

There’s an easy way to move a big bag out to the car in the store’s parking lot.  Ask a salesperson.  Almost all feed retailers will ask an employee to carry the feed out to a customer’s car and lift it into the trunk.

That eliminates one need to lift the big bag but it still must be moved from the driveway into the coop’s storage bins. That’s where an old boating trick comes in handy.  Bailing. All that’s needed is a scoop and two buckets. Simply open the bag in the trunk and scoop feed from it into the buckets like bailing water from a leaky boat. Carrying two buckets of feed, each weighing ten or 12 pounds, is easier on the back than lugging a 50-pound bag.  It will take a few trips to transfer all the feed, but there’s little risk of strained muscles.


Chickens drink often and must always have plenty of clean fresh water in their coop. There’s a problem. Water weighs 8.3 pounds per gallon.  It’s easy for most people to lift small waterers from the tap to the coop, but often the hens quickly drain them, requiring frequent refilling.

A five-gallon waterer doesn’t need to be refilled nearly as often and reduces chore time. But carrying it from the tap to the coop means lifting 43 pounds of water plus a few pounds of the metal or plastic waterer. It’s a recipe for an aching back.

The solution?  Remember that old boating trick? Bailing. Clean the five-gallon waterer at the hose tap and put about a gallon of water in it.  Carry it into the coop.  Head back to the tap with a couple of buckets.   Most hold two gallons and weigh around 18 pounds when full.  Carry them to the coop and pour the water into the waterer. It’s now full.  All that’s left to do is place the cover over the waterer. It keeps water clean and  dribbles it into the pan as hens drink.

Few homes have a tap close to the backyard coop, so people must carry heavy water a tiresome distance.  A plumber can be hired to run a pipe to the coop, but that’s expensive.  There’s an easier way to have water next to the coop.

Rain barrels are an ancient technology that work perfectly today. They can be purchased online or at home and garden stores. They’re also easy to make from a barrel and valve. Add a gutter beneath a sloped coop roof and run the downspout into the top of the rain barrel. Even a light shower will quickly fill a 50-gallon rain barrel.  Fill buckets from the valve at the barrel’s bottom and it’s only a short walk to the waterer.   Rain barrel water is also handy for washing dirty hands and irrigating garden plants.

Caution: Some roofs can leach toxic materials into the water but most shingle and metal roofs yield clean, safe and refreshing drinks for the flock.  Make sure your roofing material doesn’t contain anything toxic before adding rain barrels.  Odds are it’s just fine.



The right tools make chicken care easier. Need to dig soiled litter out of the coop so it can be replaced with fresh wood chips?  Many people use a snow shovel or grain scoop. They hold lots of litter and make for fast work, but these big shovelfuls are heavy. A small square point shovel, especially if it has a long comfortable handle, holds less litter but is light and makes the task easier. It will take longer to dig out the litter with the small shovel but back muscles appreciate the lighter load.

Another handy coop tool is a wheelbarrow. It’s easier and safer to roll heavy items than carry them. Sometimes a 50-pound feed bag can be easily slid from the trunk into the wheelbarrow, eliminating the need for “bailing” as mentioned above. The same goes for the big plastic enclosed bales of pine chips often purchased for litter.


Electricity can be a huge labor saver. A chore on cold winter days in a non-wired coop is continually replacing buckets of ice with those filled with warm water. That can mean many trips to the coop. An electrically heated waterer keeps water liquid on even the coldest days and eliminates many trudges through the snow replacing ice with water.

Electric lights make checking on sleeping chickens easier than packing a flashlight and enables installing an automatic pop hole door that closes at sunset and opens when the sun rises the next day. Automatic doors also reduce the need to walk to the coop.  Electricity can power remote cameras and sensors so people can check their flock from a distance. Some operate on batteries.

Hiring an electrician to run power to the coop is an investment in convenience and safety.

Strong young adults may enjoy the lifting and walking that chicken care requires but as years roll by and hair whitens, water and feed seems to get ever heavier. Reducing strenuous chores helps children, older adults, folks with disabilities, and anyone short of time to care for their flock in ways that are safe and easy.

How Long do Hens Lay?

Homeowners with small backyard chicken flocks face a dilemma. As hens age they gradually lay fewer eggs. Eventually they decide it’s time to retire and totally stop.  If a family wants to continue enjoying fresh eggs, aging birds must be replaced with younger ones.  How do you know when to make the switch and just how do you do it?

Egg Laying Potential

Of the hundreds of chicken breeds and hybrids many are stellar egg layers, while some just don’t have the genetics to produce well. Towards the back of the Hoover’s Hatchery catalog is a chart listing the characteristics of nearly every breed they sell.  It includes the number of eggs a healthy hen of each breed is likely to produce in her first lay cycle. It varies from the torrid laying rate of about 300 for Leghorns and some hybrids to as low as 100 for fancy breeds better appreciated for beauty than production.

Given outstanding care and wholesome food and clean water, a pullet begins laying when she is between 16 and 24 weeks old. She’ll continue laying for around 14 months in her first lay cycle and then take a break. For six or eight weeks she’ll molt and grow a new set of feathers and restore her health. Then she’ll begin her second lay cycle and continue the lay/molt pattern as she ages.

No matter the breed’s productivity, a general rule applies. She’ll lay the most eggs during her first laying cycle. Then production declines by at least 10% in each subsequent lay cycle. By the time she’s five- or six-years old production drops to less than half of her first cycle until she approaches retirement. She may lay no eggs in her final years, and few hens live long enough to celebrate their tenth “hatchday.”

Most large commercial egg producers only keep hens for the first lay cycle before replacing them with younger pullets. Homeowners with small flocks often get attached to their hens and keep them longer, even though egg laying declines.  Eventually they will need to replace them.

Replacing Older Hens with Younger Ones

There are several ways to replace aging hens with younger, more productive ones.

Starting Fresh: Some people prefer to completely change their flock every few years by disposing of old hens and replacing them with pullet chicks. It has the advantage of having productive young hens laying at their maximum. The disadvantage is enduring four or five months with no eggs after old birds are removed but before chicks mature and begin laying. An option is to purchase ready to lay pullets to move into the coop soon after the old ones depart.

Gradually Replacing Hens:   Another way to keep egg production high is to replace about half the hens with young pullets every second, third, or fourth year.   This requires having two separate coops – one for the older birds and the second to house chicks until they reach maturity and can be merged with the older birds.  It also works to buy ready to lay pullets and replace about half the old hens with them. These 16- to 20-week-old birds are expensive but help keep egg production high.

Flip flopping different breeds or feather colors helps an owner age hens.  For example, if old hens are Rhode Island Reds, replacing half of them with Barred Rocks makes it easier to distinguish between older and younger layers. It also gives an opportunity to try new breeds.


 What to Do with Old Hens

Although many people don’t want to butcher chickens, butchered chickens are delicious. YouTube videos show how to process them. Don’t plan to cook them like grocery store bought chicken. Old hens have tasty tough flesh best stewed for several hours with potatoes, carrots and spices.

If butchering isn’t possible, giving old hens away or selling them for a nominal price is an option. Advertising on social media usually quickly brings people to take the old birds.  Often, they’ll butcher them as soon as they get home, but some people just like to have a few chickens around, even if they aren’t good layers.


Old Hens Have Value

Back in the days before incubators, broody hens hatched eggs and raised the chicks. They protected the babies from danger, showed them what’s good to eat, and even disciplined them. Broodies were moms and mentors. Modern chicks lack mothers, so keeping a few elderly hens in a flock allows the young birds to be mentored. Even retired hens have a role in life.

How to Make Summer Salads in a Mason Jar

I don’t know about you guys, but I had a lot of good food over the 4th of July and have had a hard time getting back on track with our healthy eating! So, here I sit, eating a salad out of a jar and thought I could share a couple of easy salad recipes with you. Why mason jars? They are easy to fill, easy to grab and easy to throw in the dishwasher! I’m a canner, so I have a bunch of these beautiful jars on hand. If you don’t, you can find them at just about any grocery or box store. I use the pint jars for portion control, but if you want to use the quart sized jars, go for it! And honestly the best part? You know you’re preparing healthy, whole food for you and your family! You can mix and match and scour the internet for different recipes, but I’ll share 3 with you that I mixed up today! I will list the ingredients in the order I put them in the jar.

Here’s a handy photo from leanjumpstart.com to tell you which order to place your ingredients so they stay the freshest possible! When you’re ready to eat, give the jar a good shake to mix everything together and enjoy!


Summer Cobb Salad

  • Ranch Dressing

  • Cherry Tomatoes

  • Cucumbers

  • Hardboiled egg

  • Cubed ham

  • Shredded cheddar cheese

  • Romaine lettuce

Summer Greek Salad

  • Black Garlic and Fig Balsamic Vinaigrette Dressing (found this at Aldi and it’s excellent!)

  • Cherry Tomatoes

  • Kalata Olives

  • Cucumbers

  • Cooked Quinoa

  • Baby Spinach and Arugula

  • Romaine Lettuce

  • Feta Cheese

Summer Berry Salad

  • Brianna’s Poppyseed Dressing

  • Strawberries

  • Blueberries

  • Yellow Peppers

  • Romaine Lettuce

  • Feta Cheese

This Summer Berry Salad is probably my favorite! The berries give it the sweetness factor, so I’m not sneaking chocolate for dessert!

Whether you’re a “salad lover” or not, I really feel you can put just about anything in these jars. It’s easy to whip a few up and they should stay good for about 5 days in the refrigerator. So, a little prep on the front end and you could have healthy meals for the entire week. The chickens love mason jar week because they get all the healthy scraps! It’s a win win for everyone!

Until next time,

The Wing Lady

Is Something Stealing My Eggs?

Have you ever suddenly experienced a drop in egg production?

While seasonal changes can often be to blame, sometimes the accuser can be a crafty predator or even one of your very own hens!

Extreme temperatures of late summer and mid-winter darkness can trigger a lapse in egg production. Also, a hen’s feather molt in late fall can also be a reason she will lay less. However, if one day you are getting lots of eggs, and the next you have almost none in the nesting box, you might have an outside culprit.

If you are finding drastically less eggs, broken eggs in the nest box, or even eggs on the ground, something may be trying to steal your eggs. Even with the most secure coop, a cunning thief can find a way in.

Using these clues, you can determine what is stealing your eggs!

Rats or Mice


  • Eggs on the ground or faraway corner
  • Eggs broken on the ground under nest box
  • Rodent droppings in corners
  • Small holes along outside of coop
  • Eggs disturbed day or night

It is almost impossible to have a truly rodent proof coop. Rodents are first attracted to the coop by the smell of food. Unfortunately, if a chicken can reach the food, so can a rodent. Occasionally, they will develop a taste for eggs. I have personally caught a large rat red handed, in an older coop, trying to push an egg out of the nest box. Rats will attempt to move the egg to their nest, eating it in privacy.

Rats and mice are a real pain and danger to your flock. They carry diseases and can put a serious dent in your chicken feed and egg collection! Extermination is the best remedy.



  • Gooey egg matter in nest boxes; no shells
  • Eggs disturbed during day
  • Snake in the nest box!

Without fail, every summer I experience at least one or two snakes stealing eggs in my coop. Usually the snakes are non-venomous. My mother-in-law often recalls the time she reached into a nest box, and felt the warm coils a snake instead of eggs! Snakes can hide UNDER the shavings as well, so be careful!

Snakes are drawn into the coop by either the smell of rodents or the eggs themselves. Snakes will usually try to eat as many eggs as they can while staying IN the nest box, then crawl out to hide in the coop until they get hungry again. A non-venomous snake is not a threat to your adult birds, and only wants the eggs. He will, however need to be removed and relocated FAR away from the coop. They are very smart, and will return in a few days if allowed. Black racers and rat snakes are the most common egg thieves.

Large Predators


  • Eggs disturbed during the night
  • Eggshells smashed and eaten all over the coop and run
  • Predation on adult birds

If your coop has even the slightest entrance, a predator can find it. If you are finding many eggs going missing at night, AND adult chickens are being harmed, you most likely have a large predator issue. The most common predators in a coop are raccoons, opossums, weasels, coyotes, and foxes. Properly enclosing the entire coop at night is the only way to fix a large predator issue.


While we may often jump to conclusion that something outside is stealing our eggs, if can be coming from the inside.

Egg eating hens, inexperienced pullets, or even simply having too few nest boxes may be the answer.

Inexperienced Hens


  • Smashed eggs in nest box
  • Always happens during the daytime
  • Occasional random egg on the ground
  • Hens with egg matter on their beaks

This spring I was finding less and less eggs and some were smashed in the nest box. I’m no newbie to coop predators and was determined to find the culprit. After much observation, I found out it was actually my young pullets doing the damage!

Young hens that are just starting to lay can be clumsy.

They know that egg needs to come out, but just haven’t 100% figured it out yet! I personally witnessed one young pullet flip around in the nest box like a bundle of nerves. She wasn’t careful and broke an egg under her feet. At the sight of a broken egg, chickens cannot resist eating it. I was finding hens with egg yolk on their beaks and thought I had an egg-eating hen.

It was actually the young pullets accidentally breaking eggs, leading to eating! They also were laying eggs in the ground.

Within a few weeks, the young girls got the hang of it, and I no longer had missing eggs.

A true egg eating hen can be a serious problem. She will not stop once she acquires the taste for them.

Too Few Nest Boxes


  • Eggs on the ground
  • Happens only during the day

This is a simple fix! The best ratio is one nest box per every 4-5 hens. Often, hens will all have a “favorite” box. They will line up in a queue, waiting to lay in that particular box. It doesn’t make sense, and I don’t know why they do this, but it happens quite a lot. After waiting in line, if the hen cannot hold it any longer, she will just lay her egg on the ground!

Eggs disappearing can be frustrating, but learning to study the clues can help you to quickly diagnose and solve the case! Good luck!

The Perfect Dust Bath

Have you noticed your chickens laying around in a dusty spot, kicking dust all over themselves? Chickens love to roll around in the dirt and dust.  It may sounds backwards to ‘bathe’ in dust, but chickens have good reason for rolling around in the dirt.  When chickens cover themselves in dust, they are doing so in order to take care of their feathers and skin.  Chickens can easily become infested with external parasites like mites, fleas, ticks and other insects.

Most of these insects prefer to hop onto patches of clean skin that they can easily gnaw through to get a meal.  Chickens will roll around in dirt and dust to create a protective layer of dust on their skin.  Any parasites that were looking for an easy meal on your chickens will have to chew through dust to get to the skin.  Most of the time, it’s not worth it to the parasite.  They’ll hop off of the chicken to search for another host with hopefully dust-free skin.

Creating a Dust Bath for Your Chickens

Not only is dust bathing a necessary part of chicken hygiene and health, it’s also a social event.  When one chicken finds a spot that is ideal for dust bathing, other chickens will join in the fun.  You can encourage healthier skin and social interactions by providing your chickens with a custom-made dust bath.

Chickens will make their own dust bath if you don’t provide them with one.  They usually accomplish this by scratching up the ground in a low spot in the run of their coop. They’ll use this spot to cover themselves with dust.  You can create a dust bath for your chickens that is more effective and helpful than just the dirt in the bottom of your coop.

A good dust bath is made with a combination of a few ingredients. You’ll need wood ash, diatomaceous earth, sand and fine dirt.  Mix these up in equal parts to create the perfect dust bath combination.

The wood ash, fine dirt and coarse sand create a mix similar to the dirt that they would scratch up in your yard.  Wood ash has been shown to have anti-parasite properties, which will help to keep the bugs off of your chickens.

The diatomaceous earth is a fine powder that helps to keep parasites off of them.  Diatomaceous earth is made from the fossilized remains of tiny, microscopic aquatic creatures called diatoms.  Their fossilized skeletal remains are sharp and can tear apart the bodies of parasites.  Because the fossilized remains are so small, they will harm the parasites on your chickens without hurting your chickens.

If you really want to create a quality dust bath for your chickens, add herbs to the mix.  You can add all sorts of herbs to the dust bath.  The best herbs to add are ones that have anti-parasite properties.  Add lemon grass, lavender, rosemary, mint or citronella.  When your chickens roll around in their new dust bath, they’ll keep all of the bugs away.

Summer Care at the Coop: Keeping Your Flock Cool & Comfortable During the Heat of Summer

Chickens are good at lots of things — laying eggs, digging holes, throwing attitude around when they’re not pleased and even when they are happy… but one thing they are absolutely terrible at is keeping themselves cool in extreme heat. They need all the help they can get!

One of the most important things you need to know as a chicken owner is how to identify when they are overheated. They give signs like:

  • panting
  • standing with their wings spread away from their bodies
  • lethargic behavior
  • comb and wattle discoloration
  • decreased appetite
  • reduced egg production

These signs can seem pretty daunting. There is no need to worry because with a few simple tricks, you’ll be able to help them out in times of heat stress with confidence!

Provide as much shade as possible When building your coop, try your best to locate it with an ample amount of shade in mind. My flock loves to hangout under the trees in their run on hot, sunny days. If trees are not an option for you, try using a black shade cloth over your run instead.

Create a breeze Ventilation inside your chicken coop is always a good idea no matter what the season. In the summer, good ventilation is key to helping keep the inside of your coop cool. Provide screened in openings in your coop to get a good cross breeze moving throughout. If your coop doesn’t have great ventilation or you just want to add a little more air movement, consider adding a fan inside the coop. Just a simple box fan will do.

Clean your coop During the summer months it is best that you do not use the deep litter method inside the coop. The deep litter method allows the bedding material (and chicken poo) to form a deep pile on the coop floor. The buildup of material acts like an extra layer of insulation on the coop floor. As the deep litter breaks down, the material physically heats up. This is great in the winter, but not so much in the summer. Try to keep your bedding no more than a few inches deep.

Fresh cool water – Water is a huge factor here. Always make sure to refresh your flocks’ water on a daily basis to ensure that it stays as cool as possible. You may even want to refresh it a few times a day when it is extra warm outside. Adding things to their water like ice or frozen fruits and veggies are a great way to help keep the water cool and it also gives them a yummy treat as well! If you feel as if they are becoming overheated, feel free to add electrolytes into their water to keep them hydrated.

Cool treats are a fan favorite – I don’t know about yours, but my ladies LOVE a nice cool treat on a hot summer day. Things like watermelon and other fruits and vegetables are a great choice. Be sure to use high moisture treats and avoid high carb treats like cracked corn and scratch grains. Watermelon, peas, fresh corn, and strawberries all freeze super well & provide a nice refreshing snack for the flock. When consuming frozen food, the cold goodies in their crop actually helps to lower their body temperature from within.

Give them space to dig – Wallowing in dirt – sounds glorious, aye? To us, not really. To a chicken? Absolutely! Chickens will dig and scratch at the ground until they get to the point where they have dug below the sun-warmed surface. Soil that is a few inches below the ground surface can be several degrees cooler. Make sure there is space in your run for the chickens to dig freely to find the comfort of the cool ground. Once they find the cool dirt, they are bound to lay in it! Perfect for cooling their underside.

When it comes down to it, no one knows your flock like you do. Use your best judgement and respond to the signs that they are giving you accordingly. These tips have kept my flock safe and comfortable and I hope they do the same for yours! Until next time! Have the best day!

Dating and Refrigerating Eggs- What You Need to Know

To refrigerate or not to refrigerate farm fresh eggs. That’s the question. If you’ve traveled out of the US, you might have noticed that many countries don’t actually keep their eggs in the fridge. Grocery stores throughout Europe keep their egg cartons at room temperature, and it’s the same in many countries around the globe.

That begs the question, do we really have to refrigerate eggs?? It all boils down to three questions: do you wash your eggs, how quickly will you use the eggs, and what are you doing to avoid salmonella?

What You Need to Know About Egg Safety

Chicken eggs are covered in a protective layer called the bloom or the cuticle. This layer keeps harmful bacteria like salmonella out of eggs. The USDA requires that commercially produced eggs are washed right away to protect against salmonella poisoning.

Washing eggs removes the bloom which makes it possible for salmonella to enter the egg. After an egg has been washed, it needs to be refrigerated to keep harmful bacteria out of the egg. This is true for farm fresh eggs, commercially produced eggs, European eggs – all eggs.

In Europe, many hens are vaccinated to protect against salmonella so commercial eggs are not washed right away. That makes it possible for them to be stored at room temperature.

How should you decide what to do? Consider the following three questions to help you make your decision.


  1. Do you wash your eggs?

Washing or not washing eggs right away is your call. But it is true that refrigerated eggs will last longer than eggs stored at room temperature. Farm fresh eggs have a shelf life of several weeks if left (unwashed) at room temperature and several months if kept cool in the fridge.

Once an egg is put in the fridge, it needs to stay there. Don’t refrigerate an egg and then put it back on the counter.

I personally wash really dirty eggs and put them in the fridge. We all know how dirty eggs can get if a chicken cracks an egg in a nesting box, or during mud season. These really dirty eggs get washed and put in the fridge.

If you’ve concerned about keeping track of dates, you can write the date on the egg (using a pencil) or the egg carton, if you fill one up.


  1. How quickly will you use your eggs?

I do like to leave some eggs on the counter though. If I know I’ll be using eggs in a week or two, I leave the cleaner eggs on my counter. Room temperature eggs are preferred for baking and eggs on the counter free up room in my fridge, so I do like to have eggs on the counter.


  1. What’s your salmonella protection plan?

While salmonella isn’t as common in farm fresh eggs as commercial eggs, it is still a risk. Salmonella is definitely an illness you don’t want to get.

To Reduce Your Risk of Salmonella:

  • Keep your chicken nesting boxes clean.
  • Don’t eat cracked eggs.
  • You might consider discarding eggs that have a lot of chicken poop on them as salmonella is transmitted via the poop.
  • Rinse your eggs before eating if you don’t refrigerate them.
  • Crack your eggs in a separate bowl before incorporating into a recipe, just to make sure it looks ok.


What’s your protocol for farm fresh eggs? Do you wash? Store in the fridge?