Home

FROM OUR BLOG

Are Chickens Omnivores?

Believe it or not, chickens are one of the most common domesticated animals in the world, providing us with eggs, meat, and incredible pets. People all over the world keep chickens and a question that often arises is whether chickens are omnivores. What are they actually eating when they’re out and about patrolling your backyard?
Chickens eating watermelon

Are Chickens Omnivores?

First, we need to answer what an omnivore is! Omnivore is a fancy word for an organism that eats both plant and animal matter. Omnivores often have flexible diets, allowing them to adapt to various environments and food sources.

If you’ve had chickens for any length of time you will know that they are indeed omnivores. I love to watch my chickens forage for food as they free range in our backyard. They will hunt for insects like beetles, grasshoppers, ants, worms and other creepy crawly things.

In the same spin around the yard, they will munch on grass, dandelions and other plants such as my flowers! That, I don’t love so much. They will also gladly scratch around your garden too if you let them.

Chickens love a variety of “foods” which is funny because they have far less taste buds than us humans. They can tolerate spicy things like red pepper flakes because their taste buds are much less than ours! For little birds that can’t taste very much, they sure like to eat! Haha!

Chickens free ranging

Are Chickens Carnivores?

While chickens are omnivores, you might wonder if they can lean more towards being carnivores. Chickens do enjoy hunting for insects, worms and other small creatures like I said above, but their diet is not limited to just meat. In fact, chickens need a balanced diet to stay healthy. Relying solely on a carnivorous diet would leave them deficient in a lot of important nutrients. Chickens need high-quality chicken feed and occasional treats to ensure they get all the vitamins and minerals required for good health. So, while chickens can and do eat meat, they are not strictly carnivores. They thrive on a diverse diet that includes both animal and plant matter.

Can Chickens Eat Anything?

Chickens are curious creatures with a seemingly insatiable appetite, but can they eat anything? No! While chickens are omnivores, it’s important to know what’s safe and what’s not for your feathered friends.

Safe Treats for Chickens

Chickens can enjoy a wide variety of foods. Fruits like watermelon, berries and apples (without seeds) are healthy and hydrating. Vegetables such as leafy greens, carrots and peas are also great for them. Grains like oats, corn and barley provide essential nutrients and energy. Additionally, insects in your yard like beetles, grasshoppers and worms.

Along with these safe treats, I also like to give my chickens Happy Tract and Golden Graze. These treats are specifically designed to be safe and nutritious, helping to boost their immune systems and improve egg quality. They’re a wonderful supplement to their diet, ensuring my chickens stay healthy and happy, and they can be given daily!

 

Foods to Avoid

However, not all foods are safe for chickens. Avoid feeding them raw potatoes, avocado pits and skins, chocolate and anything moldy or spoiled. These can be toxic and cause serious health issues! Also, steer clear of salty or sugary foods, as these can lead to obesity and other health problems.

 

Moderation is Key

While chickens can eat a variety of foods, moderation is essential. Too many treats can unbalance their diet. A high-quality chicken feed should be their main source of nutrition, supplemented with safe treats to keep them happy and healthy.

What Do Chickens Eat?

Chickens have a varied diet that can include:

  1. Grains: This is a staple in their diet. Chicken feed often contains a mix of corn, wheat, barley and oats.

  2. Vegetables and Fruits: Chickens enjoy leafy greens, carrots, apples (without seeds), berries and melons. These foods provide essential vitamins and minerals.

  3. Insects and Small Creatures: Chickens naturally forage for bugs, worms and small insects. These provide protein and are a natural part of their diet.

  4. Kitchen Scraps: Leftover vegetables, rice, pasta (not coated in sauce or cheese) and bread can be given to chickens, but again, avoid salty, sugary or fatty foods.

  5. Specialty Feeds: High-quality commercial feeds are designed to ensure chickens get a balanced diet. These feeds often include essential nutrients like calcium and proteins to support egg production.

A balanced diet is crucial for chickens to maintain their health, produce quality eggs and lead a happy life. And I can’t stress this enough, always ensure they have access to fresh water and avoid feeding them harmful foods.

 

What I Feed My Chickens

Free-ranging chickens tend to have a more balanced diet made up of what they find naturally free ranging, while chickens kept “cooped up” or caged may require a more carefully planned diet.

 

I always provide my flock with a good high quality feed along with their free range time. My chickens don’t always get to free range either because of predators which is another important reason to have a high quality food. I spotted a coyote mid day last week running through the alfalfa field right behind our house. Yikes!

 

The girls are throwing a fit every time I keep them inside their run, but it’s for their own good right now. In cases like this, keeping high quality chicken food for them is to make sure their cute little bodies are getting all they need to stay healthy. I also always provide access to clean water, as hydration is a vital part of their diet. I always include Chicken E-lixir in my chicken’s water. It’s a daily vitamin for your flock that includes organic oregano oil, prebiotics, vitamins, minerals, calcium and electrolytes to keep your chickens at their best!

 

I love giving my chickens daily treats. Our go-tos are Happy Tract and Golden Graze. While I occasionally share their favorite fruits and veggies like watermelon and zucchini, I have peace of mind knowing that Happy Tract and Golden Graze are safe, nutritious treats that boost their immune systems and improve egg quality!

 

Ultimately, chickens are smart and usually know what they can and cannot eat. They also have their favorites which include both meat and plants! So, the next time you’re chatting with someone and the topic of chicken diets comes up, you’ll be all set to explain that chickens are indeed omnivores. They love variety and are quite the foodies in their own right!

 

Until next time,

-The Wing Lady

Chicken Lice 101: What You Need to Know

Chicken lice may not be the most glamorous topic, but they’re a critical concern for chicken owners everywhere. These pesky pests are becoming more prevalent, especially among free-range flocks and backyard flocks.

Let’s take a closer look at chicken lice, understand why they’re becoming more problematic and uncover effective treatment and prevention strategies, including the role of diatomaceous earth.

Chicken in a nesting box

Why Are Chicken Lice Becoming a Bigger Problem?

Lice aren’t exactly new to the poultry scene, but recent research has highlighted their increasing significance. Historically, lice were not considered major pests for chickens. However, a groundbreaking study by UC Riverside, published in Parasites & Vectors, has changed that perspective.

The study revealed that lice are feeding on the skin and blood of free-range chickens, infecting them at much higher rates than caged flocks. This is particularly relevant in states like California where cage-free egg production is the norm.

The research uncovered unexpected findings, including skin lesions associated with chicken body lice, which had not been documented before.

Signs and Symptoms of Chicken Lice

Recognizing chicken lice early can save you a lot of trouble. Here’s what to watch for:

  • Bald Spots and Feather Loss: One of the most noticeable signs of lice infestation is bald patches or a significant loss of feathers. Lice feed on the skin, which can lead to irritation and feather loss.

  • Excessive Pecking and Itching: Chickens with lice often peck at themselves more than usual and preen excessively as well as exhibit signs of itching or discomfort. This behavior can lead to more feather loss and skin damage.

  • Reduced Egg Production: Lice infestations can stress your chickens, leading to decreased egg production. If you notice a drop in eggs, it might be worth checking for lice.

  • Visible Lice: Sometimes, you may see the lice themselves. They’re small, wingless insects that can be hard to spot without close inspection. They typically live close to the skin and feathers and look similar to sesame seeds.

Lice on a chicken

Picture source: Life and leisure blog – Lice on a chicken

Chicken lice under a microscope

Picture source: Infovet – Chicken lice under a microscope

Preventing Lice on Chickens

Prevention is always better than a cure, and with chicken lice, there are several proactive steps you can take:

  1. Maintain Clean Housing: Regularly clean and disinfect your chickens’ coop and nesting areas. Lice thrive in dirty environments, so keeping things clean can help deter them.

  2. Monitor and Isolate New Birds: If you’re introducing new chickens to your flock, keep them isolated until you’re sure they’re lice-free. This will prevent any potential spread of pests to your existing flock.

  3. Regular Inspections: Frequently check your chickens for signs of lice. Early detection can prevent a small problem from becoming a big issue. Make sure to quarantine birds with lice until they’re gone.

  4. Proper Nutrition: Healthy chickens are better equipped to fend off pests. Ensure your flock is getting a balanced diet to maintain their overall health.

  5. Pest Control: While it’s difficult to completely prevent wild birds, you can reduce rodent presence by sealing gaps, storing food off the ground or in secure containers and keeping the coop area clean. Additionally, remove eggs daily to avoid attracting rodents.

 

Treating Lice on Chickens

Don’t panic if you find lice on your chickens. Chicken lice are host-specific and can’t survive on humans or non-bird domestic pets. They can only feed on one or a few closely related animal species. And luckily, there are several effective treatment options available to help manage the situation and keep your flock healthy.

One of the most common treatments is using permethrin sprays. Permethrin is a widely used insecticide that effectively kills lice on contact. When using permethrin, it’s essential to carefully follow the instructions provided on the product. This ensures that the treatment is applied safely and effectively without causing harm to your chickens. It’s important to cover the entire body of the chicken, paying particular attention to areas where lice and nits (lice eggs) may hide, such as under the wings and around the vent.

For those who prefer a more natural approach, there are alternative remedies like natural dust baths. One popular choice among chicken owners is diatomaceous earth, a fine powder made from the fossilized remains of tiny aquatic organisms.

Diatomaceous earth can be sprinkled in the areas where chickens typically dust bathe like Preen Queen dust bath additive. When chickens roll in the dust, the diatomaceous earth gets into their feathers and onto their skin, helping to remove moisture and kill lice. It’s important to use food-grade diatomaceous earth and to apply it in well-ventilated areas to avoid respiratory issues for both you and your chickens.

 

Myths About Diatomaceous Earth for Chickens

Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a popular natural remedy among poultry keepers, but there are a few myths surrounding its use:

  • It’s Not a Pesticide: DE works by physically damaging the exoskeletons of insects, not through chemical action. It’s not a traditional pesticide, but it can still be effective in controlling lice and mites.

  • It’s Safe in Moderation: When used correctly, DE is safe for chickens. However, excessive use or inhalation of dust can be harmful. Always use it in well-ventilated areas and in moderation. Read the directions carefully on the packaging before using.

  • It’s Not a Cure-All: DE can help control lice, but it’s not a guaranteed solution for severe infestations. It’s best used as part of an integrated pest management strategy. Always consult your veterinarian for serious infestations.

Diatomaceous Earth for Chicken Lice and Mites

As stated above, diatomaceous earth can be a valuable tool in managing chicken lice and mites. Here’s how to use it effectively:

Application Methods

1. Dust Bath Additive:

  • Usage: Mix food-grade diatomaceous earth, such as Preen Queen, into your chickens’ dust bath areas. This allows chickens to coat themselves with the powder, helping eliminate lice and mites on their bodies.

  • Application: Sprinkle a generous amount of Preen Queen containing DE into the dust bath and mix it thoroughly with the soil or sand. This helps the DE reach the chickens’ skin as they bathe, providing a natural way to control parasites.

 

2. Litter Treatment:

  • Usage: Apply DE directly to the bedding and the coop floor to target lice and mites in the chickens’ environment. We recommend using Coop Recuperate. This method helps reduce the risk of re-infestation by addressing the habitat where parasites may live and breed.

  • Application: After cleaning the coop, sprinkle a thin layer of food-grade DE, like Coop Recuperate, across the entire floor and mix it into the bedding material. This will help keep the environment inhospitable for parasites.

 

Frequency of DE

  • Regular Reapplication: Consistently apply DE, especially after cleaning the coop or refreshing the bedding. We recommend applying Coop Recuperate at least two times per week for prevention. Regular use helps maintain control over lice and mite populations, ensuring a healthier environment for your chickens.

 

Bottom line, while chicken lice might seem like a small issue, they can have a significant impact on your flock’s health and productivity! Remember, a clean environment, using DE and regular checks are your best defense against these unwelcome pests!

Best,

-Strong Animals Team

 

Trimming Feed Costs

Tending backyard chickens is both a delight and bargain. Relative to the cost of buying and keeping a purebred dog or cat, chickens are equally fascinating animals that are relatively inexpensive to keep and come with a bonus. Fresh eggs!

 

Just what does it cost to raise a clutch of chicks to the laying stage?  How can that cost be reduced?

 

Marion and Rich Patterson decided to keep track of costs. They already had feeders, waterers, brooders, and a coop, so the costs listed below are the consumable ones for raising chicks to 20 weeks. That’s about when they start laying.

The Pattersons received 12 baby chicks of various breeds from Hoover’s Hatchery in April 2024. Since many families buy just six chicks their food costs will be about half of what’s listed below. Costs vary by location. These are based on buying from an Iowa farm store.

 

Cost to Raise 12 chicks to 20 weeks

Purchase chicks. 12 @ $5/chick average                                           $ 60

Brooder electricity estimate                                                                 $  6

Starter/grower feed.  Five 50-pound bags @ $20                             $100

Bedding/litter. Four bales of wood shavings @ $7                            $  28

Total    $194

 

It comes to $16 a chick. That’s a bargain, but there are ways to reduce the expense.    Since the cost of the chicks, bedding, and electricity are fixed, a frugal family can manage the flock in a way that reduces feed expenses.

 

Reducing Feed Costs

 

It’s never a good plan to scrimp on feed. Quality commercial food helps chicks grow into healthy hens that lay plenty of eggs. Chickens should always have access to top notch feed, but here are ways to lower the cost.  Here are a few.

 

Buy feed in a Big Bag. 

When bought in a 50-pound bag the per pound cost is about 40 cents.

The same feed in a 10-pound bag is about $1 a pound!  Most farm stores

are happy to help anyone unable to heft a 50-pound bag. Ask at

the checkout counter and they’ll have a salesperson load the bag into a

customer’s trunk at no extra cost. Once home, open the bag while it’s still in the

trunk and scoop five to ten pounds of feed into buckets that can be easily lifted

without back strain. It may take a few trips from the car to the storage container but it eliminates the need to lift heavy feed.

 

Organic vs. Conventional feed:  A 40-pound bag of organic feed costs about $40 or

$1 a pound. It’s about double the cost of standard feed. Whether to buy

organic is a personal choice. It’s high quality, just expensive. Shifting to

conventional quality feed saves money.

 

Store Brand. Store brand feed is less expensive than quality name brand feed

and meets a chick’s basic nutritional needs. Often it lacks probiotics and

essential oils commonly found in premium breeds. Store brand feeds can

knock a few dollars off a bag’s cost.

 

Kitchen snacks and neighbors. Kitchen scraps are chicken treats slightly lowering

consumption of store-bought feed. Leftover rice, pizza crusts, melon seeds

and a host of other of other leftover nutritious human foods will be devoured

with enthusiasm. Scraps are best fed in moderation as a treat rather than

a steady diet. Compost potato peels, meat, and house plant trimmings instead of putting them into the coop. Neighbors may also bring over their food

scraps. Advise them on what is best to share with the hens.

 

Situating a compost bin near the chicken run makes for easy sorting. Toss

scraps that chicken can eat into the run and the rest into the composter.

 

 

Maximizing Run Size to Grow Delicious Food for Foraging Chickens.

 

Homegrown Feed.  Most families can’t grow most of the ingredients usually blended into commercial feed, but it’s easy to manage a run or yard so it produces natural feed as a supplement. Chickens are hungry omnivores. They love seeds, grass, worms, grubs, bugs, and just about any other small animal they can catch. Managing a chicken run is an easy way to reduce feed costs.

 

Chickens soon turn a tiny vegetated run into a barren swath of dirt.  A run devoid of plants produces little food, so the bigger the run the freer food it can produce. The huge fenced run at Winding Pathways provides about 200 square feet for every chicken. It is so big relative to the number of hens foraging in it that they can’t possibly eat everything there. During warm months it’s a constant source of free food. Chickens eat some of the plants directly while others attract high protein insects that hens snap up. Increasing a run’s size helps it sustain plants.

 

Families with small runs can do a few things to temporarily expand it to give the chickens more foraging space.

 

The off-season garden:  Many vegetable gardens are located adjacent to, or near, a chicken run. Often gardens are fenced to keep rabbits and deer away from tasty vegetables. The same fence will keep chickens in.

 

Chickens love many vegetables. If they can get into a garden during the growing season, they’ll quickly devour lettuce, chard, sprouting beans and ripening tomatoes. They must be excluded during the growing season, but after the last tomatoes and beans are picked and fall’s nights are frosty, chickens can be outstanding garden helpers. By rigging a portable passageway from the chicken run to the garden hens will gleefully scratch amid vegetable debris as they snack on weed seeds, insects, and bits of leftover vegetables.  They can forage there all winter and be excluded just before next spring’s planting season. Chickens foraging in a winter garden do more than find free food. They deposit droppings, loosen the soil, and eat weed seeds and insects that would otherwise cause problems during the next growing season.

 

From the Kitchen- Even the neighbors kitchen.  When fed leftover bits of rice, pizza crusts, chunks of tomatoes, melon seeds, and a host of other kitchen wastes, chickens enjoy interesting treats and put otherwise wasted food to use. Human food scraps can stretch feed dollars. Make scraps an occasional treat, rather than a main course. Some human foods may be toxic or unpalatable to chickens. It’s wise to avoid giving chickens Potato peels, tomato plants, many herbs, and house plant trimmings.  These belong in the compost bin.

 

Neighbors can help!  Many will save their kitchen scraps and enjoy the flock snacking on them.

 

Seeding the Run.  Seeding tasty plants in a chicken run helps it produce more food.

Sprinkling inexpensive annual rye seed in the run every spring, and excluding the chickens until it’s a few inches high, will produce a green vegetation carpet.  Adding clover, turnip, radish, alfalfa, and buckwheat seeds adds diversity.  Blends of seeds ideal for planting in chicken runs can often be found in stores that sell hunting equipment.  Hunters often scatter these to increase deer forage.

 

Chicken owners have many ways to save costs while enjoying the hens and relishing the jewels they lay each day.

All About Wyandottes

One of the earliest chicken breeds created in United States, the Wyandotte has been around for well over 100 years. Early colonists were looking for a dual purpose bird that could manage the harsh winters of New York. By mixing breeds such as the Brahma, Silver Seabright, and Cochins, the early Wyandotte was created. The name origin is much debated, but many suspect they were named after the nearby Wendat Native American tribe.

The very first Wyandotte chickens were silver laced, and were first recorded in colonial 1870’s New York. Colonists wanted to create a dual purpose bird that did well in cold climates. By mixing breeds such as the Brahma, Silver Seabright, and Cochins, the early Wyandotte was created. The name origin is much debated, but many suspect they were named after the nearby Wendat Native American tribe.

A bird with good size and striking feathers, the Wyandotte was bred specifically as a dual purpose breed, meaning it excels as a meat bird and layer. Hens lay an average of 240 light tan, medium sized eggs per year.

 

The very first Wyandotte was a silver laced bird. Silver laced, means having white feathers, with a black outline around each feather. The thickness and pattern of Wyandotte feathers has been meticulously crafted for many years. It is this lacing that has helped them gain popularity. The golden laced variety came next. They have striking orange feathers, each lined by black. In addition to laced varieties, there are many solid colored Wyandottes, including but not limited to: black, red, red-brown, lemon blue, buff, blue, white, partridge, and Columbian. In addition to boasting over 18 (and counting), color varieties, all true Wyandottes share these similarities:

 

Full feathered, curvy bodies

Pronounced S- Curve in neck

Small; rounded head

Rose Combs

Featherless, yellow legs

Deep Chests

Exceptional in cold climates

Talkative and prone to be noisy

Broody as hens

Excellent free rangers

Dual Purpose

In a flock, Wyandottes can stand up for themselves. They are not bullies, but do refuse to buckle to any hen drama. They do well living in a mixed flock, and are more assertive members of the flock. Wyandotte roosters are impressive, reaching upwards of 9 lbs when fully grown. Hens average about 6-7 lbs at maturity. Both male and female Wyandottes tend to be dominant members of the flock. Hens like to go broody and make very defensive and successful  others.

 

Although color can vary, all Wyandottes have small, rotund heads and a rose comb. The rose comb aids in frostbite prevention. All Wyandottes have a deep chest and yellow legs.The wattles, earlobes, and facial skin are all red. There are both bantam and standard varieties, with the lacing pattern being most popular, as well as the most difficult to achieve in standards of perfection.

 

Bred for the cold, Wyandottes excel in cooler climates. Their tight fitting feathers keep heat close to the body. Although they can do fine in warmer climates, extra care must be taken during heat spells to keep them from overheating.

 

The Wyandotte truly is a great, all-around American chicken. With a color to satisfy anyone’s tastes, these attractive chickens are a must for anyone with a mixed flock of backyard chickens.

Feeding Turkeys

To ensure the health of your turkeys, you need to mimic their natural diets as much as possible.

Wild turkeys are found all over most of the United States. Our domestic turkeys are descendants of these wild birds. Although leaner, the wild turkey has a similar diet to that of the domestic turkey. Turkeys, like chickens, are omnivores. Omnivores need a mixed diet of both plant and animal variety. Omnivores are foragers, taking bits here and there as they move through the environment. Wild turkeys can have ranges of up to a mile in diameter that they use to find food. They are seasonal opportunistic feeders. In winter, wild turkeys mainly feed on acorns and other nuts, evergreen needles and buds that are still tender. During warmer months, a large part of their diet consists of berries, bugs, small reptiles, and lots of green grass shoots.

Our domestic turkeys, although most likely fed a diet of pelleted rations, still need that balance and variety of foods.

In order to supplement your turkeys needs, there are several things you can try!

 

  1. Make your own DIY feed mix.

Much research has gone into the development of poultry feeds over the years. Most store bought turkey feeds are great as a daily ration. Commercial feeds average around 22% protein and only 3.5 % fat. These feeds are good, and also contain lots of important vitamins and minerals, but still aren’t giving the turkey everything it needs.

In the wild, turkeys consume loads of nuts. Acorns, which are a turkey favorite, are almost pure fat. Turkeys need this fat to grow thicker feathers with more sheen. Sunflower seeds are an excellent source of this good fat turkeys need.

DIY Turkey Feed

50 % base feed

– Commercial feed with average of 28% protein.

Crumbles for poults, pellets for adults

50 % add-ins

-Scratch feed

Can contain 3-12 types of grains, cracked corn, milo, and wheat. Ask your feed store for the prices and types of scratch feed.

-Sunflower Seeds

Additional sunflower seeds add the oils and fat a turkey needs.

– Oats and Barley

Amino acids in these seeds will allow your birds to process their food more easily, leading to less waste and more weight gain.

 

(Allow all day access to premixed feed, water, and calcium oystershells.)

 

  1. Free range your flock.

If at all possible, allowing your turkeys to free range is a free and easy way for them to supplement their diet themselves. In the wild, turkeys move constantly. Rarely do you see them standing still, they are forever on the move, scavenging. Your domestic turkeys instinctively know how to sample anything edible. Most of the substance in a turkey’s diet comes from plant matter. Fresh greens, like new grass shoots or plant buds are their favorite. They also LOVE bugs of any type and will soon sweep the yard clear of any insects in their path. If you are able to let them out, even for an hour a day, they will benefit greatly.

 

 

  1. Scavenge for your birds.

Scavenge in your fridge or scavenge in your backyard, and you’ll be sure to find lots of free food for your turkeys. Like chickens, turkeys will eat most any kind of leftover from your kitchen. While things like citrus fruits, onions, and chocolate don’t make good snacks for poultry, most leftovers are fine!

Turkeys crave protein, and will happily take your leftover cooked meats, and even have been known to gobble up dog and cat food! Meal worms make wonderful treats!

If it isn’t possible to let your turkeys out, you can find some free greens in your yard to bring back to them. Many common, leafy weeds are healthy for turkeys. Things like dandelion greens, purslane, and fresh clover are easy to find. Pull them up by the roots and give the whole plants to your turkeys; they’ll love it! You can also feed them chopped spinach, leafy lettuces, and kale from the supermarket.

 

 

It is important to give your turkeys a balanced diet full of variety. Luckily, that can be easily achieved! The healthier the diet, the healthier the bird! Whether you’re raising turkeys for the table, or just to look at, I hope by adding these small changes, your turkeys will grow happy and healthy!

Can Chickens Eat Eggshells

Chickens are known for their quirky eating habits and foraging for interesting snacks right in your backyard. If you’re new to raising backyard chickens you might be wondering what’s safe for our feathered friends and what things might be harmful to them. I remember starting out thinking that the sharp eggshells would slice their throats or something. I was wrong!
Crushed chicken eggshells held in a hand

Can Chickens Eat Eggshells?

Yes! Chickens actually enjoy eating eggshells and they are an incredible source of calcium for them to produce more strong eggs. Of course there are always naysayers out there they don’t encourage this, but I’ve been doing it for years and have had incredible success with my laying hens.

 

Why Feed Eggshells to Chickens?

One of the primary reasons to feed eggshells to chickens is their high calcium content. Calcium is essential for hens, especially for those that are actively laying eggs. Each egg requires a significant amount of calcium for the shell’s formation. Therefore, providing your hens with a calcium source is crucial for their health and egg production! Feeding eggshells helps ensure that your hens produce strong, intact eggs.

 

Weak or thin-shelled eggs are more prone to breakage, which can lead to a messy coop and a decrease in egg production. In some cases the egg can break inside the chicken and then you have bigger problems. 

Chicken E-lixir in the grass

A diet rich in calcium contributes to healthier eggs. For my flock, I also use Chicken E-lixir which is an excellent source of calcium, and Golden Graze as a fun treat for them! Golden Graze contains oyster shells for that added calcium boost

 

Reducing Egg Waste

One of the reasons I love feeding my chickens their eggshells is because I feel like I’m not wasting any part of the egg! Chickens are smart and will feed on eggshells as they need calcium. However, there are some things to keep in mind before you throw the eggshells back out to them.

 

How to Clean and Prepare Eggshells for Chickens

Before offering eggshells to your flock, it’s crucial to clean them properly. Rinse the shells to remove any residual egg whites or yolk, which can attract pests and bacteria.

 

1. Bake the Eggshells (Optional)

To further reduce the risk of bacteria, some backyard keepers choose to bake the eggshells at a low temperature (around 200°F or 93°C) for about 10 minutes. This step not only sterilizes the shells but also makes them easier to crush. I used to do this but don’t usually take the time to anymore. I’ve relaxed a bit as a chicken mama. Haha!

 

2. Crush the Eggshells

Crushing the eggshells into smaller pieces aids digestion and makes the calcium more accessible to the chickens. I put them in a Ziploc bag or between two pieces of waxed paper and then use a rolling pin to crush them good. Some people will use a food processor, but I like quick and easy. The smaller the pieces, the easier it will be for the hens to consume them, ensuring they get the maximum benefit.

 

3. Feed Separately

It’s best to offer crushed eggshells separately from the regular feed. You can place the shells in a small dish or container within the coop, allowing hens to eat them as needed. Chickens will naturally regulate their calcium intake, so providing the shells as a free choice option is an effective strategy. I use this same strategy with oyster shells. My girls always have a bowl of oyster shells available to them if they need extra calcium!

Colorful basket of eggs

Myths About Feeding Eggshells to Chickens

One of the most common misconceptions is that feeding chickens their own eggshells will lead to them pecking at and eating their own eggs. This isn’t true. However, chickens can and will become egg eaters if they get bored, stressed or lack protein. It’s so important to make sure they have high quality food maintain their health and nutrition.

 

Feeding eggshells to your chickens is a simple yet effective way to ensure they receive the calcium needed for strong egg production. And it’s less waste in your kitchen. It’s a win-win for everyone! Your chickens will thank you with plenty of delicious and nutritious eggs!

Until next time,

–The Wing Lady

Jersey Giants

They come with lustrous black, bright white, or blue feathers but Jersey Giants are really a mellow yellow chicken breed. The reason goes back to the breed’s creation in the late 1800s.

 

Back then, few families enjoyed chicken or turkey dinners for one reason. It was expensive. Birds of that long-ago era gobbled down plenty of food yet grew slowly.

Raising them to market size was a slow and expensive process so, typically, chicken and turkey dinners were reserved for holiday meals and special meals served to guests.

 

New Jersey chicken breeders John and Thomas Black were determined to make chicken a more common American meal. Between 1870 and 1880 they crossed several breeds, including Langshans, Dark Brahmas, and Javas to create what came to be called the Black Jersey Giant. Although it had black feathers it was named in honor of the Black Brothers.

Their success was mixed. The new breed grew to a huge size. A rooster can tip the scales at 13 pounds with hens only a little smaller. Originally, they had black feathers so why are they a mellow yellow breed?

 

The answer’s simple. Back then many families raised small flocks. Mellow is a desirable trait. Giants are so big they have a tough time flying, making them easy to keep inside a small fence. Many breeds are considered to be nervous, or “flighty.”  They spook easily and sometimes fly over even a tall fence. Not Giants. The Black Brothers knew that small flock owners preferred mellow, so the trait became a goal of the breed’s development.

 

Yellow?  Consumers are fickle. English diners prefer a chicken with white skin. Not Americans. They like yellow skin. So, a Black Jersey Giant has black feathers and dark shanks, but underneath is yellow skin. The underside of their feet is also bright yellow.

 

The Giant is a wonderful backyard bird. They’re mellow and are easy to handle. Hens are prolific layers of large brown eggs. The Black Brothers did a great job creating the breed, but their timing kept them from ever becoming an important commercial meat breed. Giants grow slowly, and it takes plenty of expensive feed for them to reach the size of a small turkey.  To reach full size can take eight or nine months.

 

During the Twentieth Century many breeds and hybrids were developed that grew much faster than Giants while eating less feed per pound of growth. Cornish Rocks, for example, reach market size when only about six weeks old and eat much less feed than older breeds. That led to commercial success for growers and made chicken a common and inexpensive lunch or dinner.

 

Despite their slow growth Jersey Giants are wonderful birds to include in a backyard flock.  After all they are mellow and fun to be around. The black variety has impressive almost shiny plumage, while White Giants are brilliant in the sunshine. There is even a blue feathered Giant. All are great layers, although they may start producing eggs slower than better known Rhode Island Reds or ISA Browns.

 

They are big and may need slightly larger nests and pop hole doors than more standard sized breeds, but generally they can squeeze into normal sized nests.

 

The Jersey Giant breed enjoys a rich heritage. Although it’s not economic for commercial meat or egg producers it is a wonderful breed perfectly suited to a small flock in the backyard.

Entertaining Your Flock on a Budget

Chickens really live their best lives when they are free ranging outside. Unfortunately, not everyone has the option of letting their chickens out of the coop. Space restrictions, local ordinances, and job schedules are just a few of the reasons why many chickens are cooped up all day.

Owning animals is like being a zookeeper. A good zookeeper takes care of the physical needs of an animal. However, a great zookeeper comes up with ways to keep their animals’s minds healthy and active! It’s called enrichment! There are countless ways to provide your flock something to keep their brains busy.

That being said, chickens are simple creatures, and can live a happy and productive existence in a coop. Since we love them, we want them to have fulfilling lives. Here four affordable ways to give your flock enrichment!

Provide a dust bathing area. 

Chickens actually NEED a place on the coop floor to dust bathe in order to stay healthy. Part of a chicken’s daily routine is covering her feathers in fine dust, all the way down to the skin. After kicking around on her side, she will quickly hop up, and shimmy all the dirt, dust, and parasites off her feathers!

Add a dust area in your coop by clearing a clean 2ft. x 2ft. square on the ground. Leave it as dry as possible and add in a few buckets of dirt from anywhere on your property. There’s no need to use a tray, they’ll soon scratch all the dust out and around!

Put tree branches in the coop.

Chickens, like most birds, love to be up high. Their natural instinct to perch, leaves them always looking for the highest possible spot to rest. You can give them some new furniture simply by bringing in tree branches! The bark will help file down their toenails, as well as help work their muscles. The branches might last a few months before they’ll need to be replaced, and by then your flock might be ready for some new scenery anyway!

Rotate hanging treats periodically.

There are tons of resources and ideas for hanging chicken treats out there! In fact, I’m pretty sure there are some on the Hoover’s blog already! Whole cabbage heads, pumpkins, frozen watermelon; the possibilities are endless! Yummy snacks are always a great motivator to get chickens moving!

Give them a chance to hunt.

Chickens are meant to forage for their food all day. In today’s world of pampered pullets and designer coops, our chickens are often given 24/7 access to feed. This is fine! However, is it fun? Nothing pleases a hen more than being able to scratch for her food. Try broadcast feeding some yummy treats like whole corn, sunflower seeds, or dried mealworms. Speaking of mealworms, for even fresher insects, you can pickup some live mealworms or crickets from pet stores. They’ll make a great source of protein for your birds, and will be entertaining as well!

There are many ways still to entertain your chickens without breaking the piggy bank. Let us know some of your favorite ways to enrich the lives of your flock down below!

Daylight Savings Time and Chickens

Does Daylight Savings Time affect chickens?

Well, the short answer is no. Of course chickens don’t have a need to understand numerical times, but YES they are affected by the shortening of days.

 

Autumn can be a rough time for chickens. You probably have noticed all of your birds molting. Molting happens to every chicken, every fall. They drop their old feathers, and grow in a new, fresh set for winter. They can be more vulnerable to cold during this time. Some of my girls go almost completely naked during molting season. One named Smarty, gets so puny, she literally looks like a disgruntled pigeon as she runs across the yard.

Chickens are creatures of habit. Their clock is the sun. It doesn’t matter to them if bedtime used to be at 9:00, but now it’s at 6:00. When the sun sets, that tells chickens it’s time to go up. Personally, the chickens going to bed earlier works for me! If you lock your flock up at night, you know the struggle of getting everyone in the coop when it’s still bright outside at 8:45pm in the summer.

With the sun as their guide, chickens undergo some internal changes when the days shorten. They now will lay less eggs, even stopping completely in winter. The darker days trigger the molt, which I mentioned previously. They will be spending more energy staying warm.

Just remember to please give your flock more energy rich foods this fall and winter. Whole corn makes a great evening snack for them, and will heat up their bodies during nighttime digestion. (It’s also a great way to persuade them to go up!) Ensure the coop is free of drafts and remember- no water inside the coop. (This prevents frostbite.)

 

Daylight Savings Time can be rough on everyone, chickens and humans included. Just prepare to hunker down and bring plenty of snacks- for your flock that is!

 

Poultry Watering Systems

Poultry watering systems come in many shapes and sizes these days, and your local feed store will have several options. So, which one is right for you?

There are advantages and disadvantages to any product, so choose the one that is best suited to your situation. As I tell any farmer, beekeeper, or gardener: “Do what works for you!”

Some of your choices for watering systems are:

-Metal founts

-Plastic founts

-Water troughs

However, my personal preference is poultry nipples. While the founts work, I found not only did they have a tendency to get dirty, but they would also often develop a tiny leak that would cause the whole thing to dump out, leaving a wet spot in the coop. If we didn’t catch it on time, the flock would run out of water. If you are going to use a fount, I recommend building a stand to keep it up off the ground and minimize some of the contamination issues.

The main advantage to poultry nipples is that the water you are giving your birds stays clean and cool as long as it stays in a shady place where the chickens can have constant access. They are also inexpensive and can be installed in a variety of ways to suit your needs.

For mobile coops, you can simply install them on the bottom of a five-gallon bucket and suspend it inside your coop. This setup should be sufficient to keep a small flock of backyard birds well-hydrated for a week without needing to refill.

If you have a larger flock in a mobile coop, you can attach the nipples to a PVC pipe by drilling the recommended size hole and screwing them in. I like to have at least one nipple per six birds, spaced out every 12 inches along the pipe. This pipe can then be attached to a 30- or 55-gallon drum as the water source. Fill your drum with water weekly and your chickens will have plenty of cool clean water to drink.

For a more permanent coop, you can use a set up a similar system using a PVC pipe attached to a water supply. If you are going to go this route you will also need a pressure reducer to take your pressure down to below 1 PSI. These are available to order, just be sure to look for the reducers specifically designed for poultry nipples. For the DIY enthusiasts, you can also build an inexpensive reducer by putting a stock tank float in a five-gallon bucket. Then hook the PVC pipe up to the bottom of the bucket and allow the water to feed into the line using gravity.

A few recommendations I have no matter which system you choose:

-Always plan on having a way to clean out the system. For the PVC pipe design, this can be as simple as a ball valve at the end of the line that allows you to flush the system. I like to run a bit of bleach through the lines at least every 6 months to keep things sanitary.

-In colder climates, plan on keeping your system from freezing by using heat tape.

-Train your birds to use nipples from the youngest age possible. I put them in the coop along with a fount when the birds are about a week old, then I raise the bucket as they grow and can reach up higher.

-Make sure your waterer stays in the shade on hot summer days.

-Have fun raising your birds, take time to observe their daily activities, watch and listen as they peck at the watering system to fulfill their needs. They are fascinating creatures, especially ducks!!!

Drew Erickson is Farm Manager for Rodale Institute Midwest Organic Center in Marion, Iowa. Learn more about Rodale Institute and their work in the Midwest at RodaleInstitute.org/Midwest.

podcasts