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Role of the Rooster

Besides the obvious need for procreation, many people ask me what the reason for having a rooster is. If you don’t need a rooster for the hens to lay eggs, then why keep one? A rooster provides protection and stability to his flock. Ever vigilant, he keeps his hens close and always is looking and listening out for danger. Keeping a rooster is more of a personal preference, but there are sure advantages to adding one to your flock.

Cockerels vs Pullets

A cockerel is a young male rooster, while a pullet is a young female chicken.

If you purchase “straight run” chicks, you are gambling on the gender of your chicks. “Straight run” chicks are male and female chicks mixed together. While there are several debated theories on how to tell the difference, the only sure fire way to determine gender is by sexing done by a trained professional. The sexual organs are internal, so unless the chicks are sex-linked. Sex-linked chicks are the male and female chicks of a particular breed look different as chicks, but these chickens will not

 

Young roosters, called cockerels, do have some features you can look out for. Cockerel chicks will have thicker, bigger feet and legs. They also have what some describe as an “angry eye.” The chick may not actually be feeling any particular way, but it is true that baby roosters have a slant to their eyes, almost giving them an squinty, angry appearance! The only sure fire way to determine whether you have a pullet or a cockerel, will become evident when it starts to crow!

 

Roosters help feed their hens.

Did you know a good rooster will actually feed his hens before himself? Yes, a gentleman rooster will offer delectable treats to his wives. He will call them over with a rapid, high pitched cluck. He will pick up the morsel and keep dropping it in front of the hen to see.

Young roosters are often less chivalrous, and tend to be greedier than the seasoned roosters. This devotion seems to come with age and maturity. Just like people,all roosters can be different. If you have a good one, keep him around! If you have a bad one,best to remove the problem instead of try to reform them. Aggressive roosters are no joke and can be relentless. Defending yourself just emboldens the rooster, and they really do not seem to learn from reprimands with a broom. The best place for a problem rooster is in the oven!

Crowing

The most iconic trait of the rooster is their crow. Roosters start crowing at around 3 months old, and sometimes this is the first indicator for new chicken owners that they even have a rooster. Roosters crow to stake claim to their territory and warn other roosters to stay away. The frequency and volume depends in the individual. It is true that each rooster has his own unique sounding crow. Roosters don’t just crow in the morning, they will crow all day, and sometimes even in the dead of the night! Its important to consider whether you (and your neighbors) would be okay with tolerating a particular level of noise, that will be happening throughout the entire day.

 

Roosters provide free flock surveillance.

The main reason to keep a rooster is to help protect your flock. If he is devoted, a rooster will spend all day keeping an eye on his ladies. Always checking the sky and also keeping tabs on the location of all his hens, a good rooster will definitely improve the survivability of the flock. While some roosters will go to battle to defend a hen, their main contribution is as an alarm system. It really is true that a rooster will be hyper vigilant throughout the day, while the hens tend to be a little less observant of their surroundings. His warning call, a quick and high pitched rapid almost shout, alerts the hens to danger. At his call, the hens will always fly for cover.

 

Roosters provide flock replenishment for free.

The best hen to rooster ratio is 1 rooster per about 10-12 hens. A single rooster is totally fine with more hens, but if you are wanting hatching eggs, its best to stay closer to the ratio to increase your chances of fertile eggs. Mating happens quickly, usually with the rooster first calling the hen, tempting her with a small piece of food. He will then put one wing down, extended to the ground, and do a little dance around her. If the hen accepts him, she will squat on the ground. After mating, the hen can keep sperm within her for several weeks, thus not needing to mate everyday to lay daily fertile eggs.

As far as paternal instincts, roosters don’t have much. They will continue to protect and look over the flock, but it is the mother chickens that do the chick rearing.

 

 

Roosters are beautiful, fun characters to have on your farm. Their quintessential crow, and watching them strut proudly around the yard, reminds us of a simpler time and place. If local ordinances allow, try adding a rooster to your flock. Roosters are usually less expensive than hens of the same breed, and you can even sometimes find people giving them away! (just be sure to get a nice one!)

All About the Frizzle Chicken Breed

Everyone loves a yard sprinkled with different colors and breeds of chickens. Well, at least people who love chickens do! Chickens come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes and colors, and each is fascinating in its own unique way.

frizzle chicken

But few are as charming and eye-catching as the Frizzle chicken breed. With their flipped-up feathers and sweet personality, Frizzles have captivated chicken lovers around the world. My own little Tinkerbell is a fan favorite! She’s itty bitty, but her personality is larger than life and she’s been an incredible addition to our backyard crew.

 

The History of Frizzle Chickens

Frizzle chickens have been around for centuries, with their unique feather gene likely originating in Southeast Asia. Some of the earliest records of Frizzles date back to the 1600s, when they were described by naturalists and travelers exploring the region.

 

The frizzled feather trait is actually the result of a natural genetic mutation. Rather than lying flat, the feathers curl outward, creating that fluffy, windswept look. Over time, breeders began to intentionally select for this trait in several chicken breeds.

 
young frizzle chicken

Today, Frizzle chickens aren’t a distinct breed, but rather a feather type that can appear in birds like:

  • Cochins

  • Polish

  • Orpingtons

  • Silkies

  • Mille Fleur d’Uccles (like my girl Tinkerbell!)

     

What Does a Frizzle Chicken Look Like?

It’s pretty hard to miss a Frizzle in the flock. Their curled feathers give them a puffball appearance that looks like they’ve just stepped out of a wind tunnel, in the cutest way possible. Because they can’t lay flat, their feathers also don’t insulate as well, so they tend to need a little extra care in cold weather.

 

Their eye-catching looks make them popular in poultry shows, but Frizzles aren’t just for show, they’re sweet, curious and tend to be very people-friendly.

 
woman holding a frizzle chicken
 

How Many Eggs Do Frizzle Chickens Lay?

If you’re wondering, “Do Frizzle chickens lay eggs?”—they absolutely do! Just don’t expect them to be your top producers.

 

Since Frizzles are a feather type and not a production-focused breed, egg-laying depends on the breed they’re crossed with. On average, you can expect:

  • 150 to 180 eggs per year

  • Small to medium-sized eggs

  • Cream or tinted shell colors

     

They’re more of a companion or show bird, but those eggs are still a nice bonus!

 

Caring for Frizzle Chickens

Frizzle chickens need the same basics as any backyard chicken, with a few small tweaks for their special feathers:

  • A dry, draft-free coop is a must, especially in winter, since their feathers don’t shed water well

  • Provide clean bedding and good ventilation

  • Give them access to dust baths to help with feather and skin health

  • Offer a balanced feed, grit and clean water daily

 

Here’s what I use in my own coop:

 

Why Frizzles Are Worth the Hype

Whether you’re drawn to their adorable, poofy look or their easygoing personality, the Frizzle chicken breed is sure to bring something special to your backyard.

 

Tinkerbell may be half the size of everyone else, but she walks around like she runs the place (she doesn’t, but don’t tell her that). Most of my flock looks out for her and lets her do her thing, which is just one more reason I love raising chickens.

 

I started this journey to put fresh, healthy eggs on the table. But I stayed in it because I fell in love with the personalities, quirks and little moments that make chicken keeping so rewarding.

 

If you’re looking for a fun, friendly bird to brighten up your flock, add a Frizzle or two. You won’t regret it!

Until next time,

–The Wing Lady

How Many Eggs Does a Chicken Lay in a Day?

It’s spring, and you know what that means! Backyard flocks are booming. Thanks to rising egg prices, baby chicks are flying off the shelves as more people dive into the joys of raising chickens. And while the eggs are certainly a bonus, it’s the fun, quirky personalities of chickens that make them truly lovable.

chicken sitting in a nesting box on 3 eggs

Eggs are one of the most popular kitchen staples around the world, and most of them come from chickens. Sure, duck and goose eggs have their place, but today we’re talking all things chicken eggs.

 

One of the most common questions I get is: How many eggs does a chicken lay in a day? The answer depends on a few key factors like breed, age, diet, environment and time of year.

 

How Often Do Chickens Lay Eggs?

On average, a healthy, happy hen lays one egg every 24 to 26 hours. That’s about an egg a day, though it’s not guaranteed. Once a hen lays an egg, her body immediately begins forming the next one. Because of this natural rhythm, it’s extremely rare for a hen to lay more than one egg per day.

 

To help support their health and egg production, I love giving my flock Chicken E-lixir. It’s like a daily vitamin for chickens, packed with calcium, electrolytes, prebiotics and oregano essential oil. Basically, everything hens need to stay strong and productive

 

What Affects Egg Production in Chickens?

There are several factors that influence how many eggs your chickens will lay. These include:

  1. Breed Some breeds are egg-laying machines! For example, Leghorns can lay over 300 eggs per year. Breeds like Silkies or Polish chickens, on the other hand, are more ornamental and lay far fewer eggs.

  2. Age Hens usually start laying eggs at around 5 to 6 months old. Their egg production peaks during the first 1–2 years and gradually slows as they age. My oldest gals are over 6 years old and only lay occasionally now, but I still adore them!

  3. Lighting Chickens need 14–16 hours of light per day to maintain steady egg production. That’s why many chicken keepers add supplemental lighting in the winter. Personally, I give my girls a seasonal break, but it’s your choice.

  4. Nutrition A balanced diet rich in protein, calcium and other key nutrients is essential for consistent egg-laying. Supplementing with products like Chicken E-lixir or offering high-quality treats like Golden Graze can help round out their daily diet.

  5. Stress and Environment Things like dirty coops, illness, predator scares or sudden changes in routine can affect laying. Keeping your coop clean, calm and safe helps keep your hens happy and their laying on track.

     

Why Some Hens Don’t Lay Every Day

Even with all the right conditions, not all hens lay every day. Some may lay every other day or even skip several days. Here are a few common reasons:

  • Natural laying cycles

  • Molting periods, when hens regrow feathers

  • Stress, such as flock changes or loud noises

  • Diet or health issues

 

Consistency matters. Clean water, fresh bedding, plenty of light and a calm environment go a long way in supporting egg production. A little care goes a long way in helping your flock thrive!

 

The Joy of Raising Chickens

chicken sitting next to a flower pot and golden graze chicken treats

Eggs are great, but if you’re like me, it’s your chickens’ personalities that win your heart. I mean, how cute is Tinkerbell posing next to her Golden Graze snack?

 

Raising chickens brings daily smiles, fresh eggs and a whole lot of fun. Whether you’re in it for the nutrition, the lifestyle or just the joy of backyard chickens, one thing’s for sure, these feathered friends are worth every moment.

 

Until next time,

 

–The Wing Lady

What Are the Differences Between a Rooster and a Hen?

If you’re not familiar with backyard chickens, you might not automatically know the difference between a hen and a rooster. It’s something most of us in the Midwest probably take for granted and even wonder how people couldn’t know the difference.
 
hen and rooster

It reminds me of the time growing up when my cousin from the Twin Cities came to visit. She was so excited to see all the “dogs” running through the field. They were sheep. Haha! It was funny at the moment, but I realized then that not everyone gets to grow up around farm animals and learn the simple difference between a rooster and a hen.

 

Let’s break it down in a way that’s easy, practical and (hopefully) a little entertaining.

 

Size, Shape and Fancy Feathers

Roosters (the boys) and hens (the girls) each bring their own look to the flock. Roosters are usually the bigger, flashier ones. They tend to be more robust in size and have more prominent combs and wattles, you know, the red stuff on their head and under their beak. Roosters also have longer, more colorful tail feathers and those slick saddle feathers along their backs.

 

That said, not all hens are plain. I’ve got a few walking around my backyard that could give any rooster a run for his money in the looks department!

 

The Sounds They Make

Roosters are known for their classic crowing, but here’s the truth: it’s not just a morning thing. Any rooster I’ve had has crowed all day long. They crow to stake their claim, protect their hens or just because they feel like it.

 

Hens have their own language, too. They mostly cluck, sometimes to show they’re happy, sometimes when something’s up. Their voices are usually a bit softer (but not always!). I love sitting out in the run just listening to them go back and forth like they’ve got all the gossip.

 

Who’s in Charge?

Roosters tend to take the lead. They’re naturally more assertive and play the role of protector. If there’s a threat nearby, your rooster will let you, and the whole flock, know about it.

 

Within the coop, there’s always a pecking order. If there’s a rooster, he’s usually at the top. Hens will fall in line behind him. If there’s no rooster? The hens will sort it out themselves, and let me tell you, it’s not always pretty. Fights and squabbles will happen until a top hen takes charge. And once that order is set, everyone knows their place. It’s honestly fascinating to watch.

 

The Big Question: Do You Need a Rooster for Eggs?

This is one I get asked a lot, and the answer is no. Hens will lay eggs just fine without a rooster around. The eggs just won’t be fertilized.

 

If you do have a rooster, he’ll mate with your hens and the next eggs laid could hatch into chicks. Roosters don’t exactly believe in monogamy either, one rooster will mate with multiple hens a day. It’s just how they’re wired.

 

Lifespan, Behavior and Backyard Drama

Both roosters and hens can live for several years, depending on the breed and how well they’re cared for. Hens typically lay eggs for a few productive years, while roosters can sometimes get a bit testy, especially if they’re overcrowded or just have a feisty personality.

 

I’ve had to rehome a few roosters (and even a couple hens) over the years for getting too aggressive. I don’t tolerate naughty behavior in the coop. Right now, I’ve got one rooster who’s behaving himself, and I’m loving the peaceful balance. There’s something special about stepping outside and hearing him crow in the morning. It just feels like home.

 

Roosters and hens are definitely different, but they both bring something unique to your flock. I love having a kind rooster around to watch over his ladies, and there’s nothing better than collecting fresh eggs from my hens each day.

 

Raising backyard chickens has been one of my very best yes’s!

 

Until next time,

 

-The Wing Lady

What is Sour Crop in Chickens and How to Treat It

I remember walking out to check on the girls one hot summer day a few years back. I do regular health checks on my flock, so I immediately noticed Nugget, my black Silkie, hanging back by the fence looking off. One look and I knew she wasn’t feeling right. I picked her up and felt her crop, and when I bent over to grab something off the ground, a smelly liquid shot out of her mouth. Gross! That was my first experience with sour crop in chickens.

 

What is Sour Crop in Chickens?

Sour crop, also called crop stasis or sour crop syndrome, is a condition where the crop (a pouch in the throat where chickens store food before digestion) stops emptying properly. When food gets stuck and doesn’t move through the system like it should, it can start to ferment. This leads to a buildup of gas, acids and in some cases, yeast or fungal infections. If not treated quickly, sour crop can become serious.

 

What Causes Sour Crop?

A lot of things can throw off a chicken’s digestive system. Diet is a big one. If a bird eats too many sugary scraps, processed food or even spoiled leftovers, it can ferment in the crop. That’s why it’s so important to know what foods you shouldn’t feed your chickens! In Nugget’s case, I’m pretty sure she grabbed something weird while free-ranging.

 

Lack of dietary fiber can slow digestion too. And if your chickens don’t have access to fresh, clean water, their crop can harden and block up. That’s one reason I use Chicken E-lixir in my flock’s water daily. It’s an easy way to support hydration and overall health!

 

Other common causes of sour crop include fungal infections, stress from overcrowding or extreme temperatures and even small objects a curious chicken might swallow. Unfortunately, if your birds free-range, there’s always some risk. But keeping their diet balanced and environment low-stress goes a long way.

 

Signs of Sour Crop in Chickens

It’s important to spot sour crop early. Some of the clearest symptoms include:

  • A swollen or squishy crop, especially in the morning when it should be empty

  • A foul, sour odor coming from the bird’s beak

  • Lethargy or isolating from the flock

  • Loss of appetite

  • Weight loss over time

  • Occasional regurgitation of liquid or undigested food

 

You may also notice a puffed-out crop area that stays full all day, wet feathers under the beak from regurgitation, or a hunched-over posture that shows your hen isn’t feeling her best

 

When I checked Nugget, she had all of these signs, except the weight loss, since I caught it early.

 

How to Treat Sour Crop in Chickens

Once you suspect sour crop, act quickly to relieve discomfort and get digestion back on track.

 

Start by removing all food for 12 to 24 hours to give the crop a break. I brought Nugget into the garage, gave her a quiet place to rest in a kennel and separated her from the rest of the flock. Honestly, she didn’t even care about the missing food. She wasn’t feeling up to eating anyway.

 

Make sure your chicken has plenty of clean water! I added Flock Fixer to Nugget’s water, which I truly believe helped her bounce back. It’s packed with oregano essential oil, prebiotics, probiotics, electrolytes, and vitamins which is perfect for stress recovery and gut support.

 

I also gently massaged her crop to help loosen the contents and get things moving. A couple times a day, I’d tip her slightly forward while massaging so she could expel any liquid buildup. Just plug your nose, it’s not pleasant!

 

How Long Does Recovery Take?

In Nugget’s case, she spent two days resting in the garage. She was a sweet little patient and responded well to the care. After that, she was back with her flock, scratching around like nothing had happened.

 

Preventing Sour Crop in Chickens

The best way to avoid sour crop is by staying consistent with care. Feed a balanced, fiber-rich diet and limit sugary or processed treats. Offer constant access to clean water and use preventative support like Chicken E-lixir or Flock Fixer to boost hydration and digestion, especially in stressful times like heat waves or changes in environment.

 

And most importantly? Keep a close eye on your birds. Catching sour crop early made all the difference for Nugget!

 

Until next time,

 

The Wing Lady

Which Vegetables and Flowers Shouldn’t Be Started in Eggshells?

I remember having big dreams of starting my own seedlings and saving a ton of money on our garden. While it can be a rewarding and budget-friendly task, the older I get, the more I lean toward just buying started plants. But if you’re feeling ambitious and want to try growing from seed, planting in eggshells is a fun and eco-friendly way to get started.
two tomatoes form the garden being held in a hand

That said, not every plant loves being tucked into a tiny eggshell pot. Here’s what to know before you crack into seed starting.

 

Why Use Eggshells for Seed Starting?

Eggshells make adorable little seed starters, and they’re a great way to reuse something you’d normally toss out. For backyard chicken keepers and gardeners alike, it feels good to repurpose natural materials and cut down on plastic waste. Plus, eggshells break down in the soil over time and offer a small calcium boost to your garden, which can support healthy plant growth.

plant growing in eggshell

 

To prepare eggshell seed starters:

  • Crack eggs near the top to keep the shell mostly intact

  • Rinse out the inside and let them dry

  • Poke a small drainage hole in the bottom

  • Place shells back in the carton for stability

  • Fill with seed-starting mix and plant your seeds

 

Eggshells are especially fun for kids or anyone looking for a hands-on gardening project. Just remember, they’re small, so they’re best suited for plants with compact root systems or those that grow quickly and can be transplanted early.

 

Fast Growers and Deep Rooters Need More Room

Some plants just aren’t a good match for eggshell seed starting, either because they grow quickly or send roots deep into the soil. Eggshells are eco-friendly and effective, but their small size can limit root development and cause more harm than good for certain crops.

 

Fast-growing vegetables like lettuce and radishes often do best when sown directly into the garden or larger containers. I personally love planting big pots of lettuce on our deck. It looks beautiful and makes picking supper a breeze!

chicken in the garden with tomatoes and cucumbers

 

You’ll want to skip eggshells for these plants with large or deep root systems:

  • Lettuce and radishes – Fast growers that quickly outpace the small space

  • Tomatoes, cucumbers and squash – Develop sprawling root systems

  • Carrots, beets and parsnips – Need deep soil for long, healthy taproots

     

Trying to grow these in eggshells can lead to stunted growth, crowded or twisted roots and transplant shock that slows them down once they hit the garden. In the case of root veggies, it may even lead to misshapen or poorly developed produce.

 

If you’re growing any of these crops, give them a better start with deeper seed trays, small pots or direct sowing into the ground. They’ll thank you for the extra space.

 

Heavy Feeders Need More Than Calcium

Additionally, corn, peppers and similar plants are known as “heavy feeders,” meaning they need a lot of nutrients to grow. While eggshells offer calcium, they can’t come close to meeting the early nutrient demands of these plants. That’s especially true during germination and the first few weeks of growth, when a solid nutritional foundation sets the tone for the entire growing season.

 

If you’re starting heavy feeders, opt for a high-quality potting mix with added compost or natural fertilizers. Use larger containers or seed trays that allow the roots to expand and access those nutrients. You’ll set your plants up for better growth, higher yields and less transplant shock down the line.

 

And if you raise chickens, this is a great spot to use composted chicken manure to enrich your mix. Just make sure it’s fully composted and aged, as fresh manure is too strong for seedlings and can burn them.

Acid-Loving Plants and Eggshells Don’t Mix

Soil pH plays also plays a big role in whether your plants thrive or struggle. Some plants, like blueberries, and azaleas, prefer more acidic soil to help them absorb the nutrients they need. Eggshells, on the other hand, are naturally alkaline. When used as seed-starting containers for acid-loving plants, they can raise the pH of the soil just enough to cause problems.

 

If the pH isn’t right, these plants may struggle with nutrient uptake, which can show up as yellowing leaves, weak stems and stunted growth. In short, it’s not worth the risk.

 

To give these types of plants a good start, skip the eggshells and choose a seed-starting mix designed for acid-loving plants. You’ll set them up for healthier growth and fewer nutrient issues from the beginning.

 

Tiny Seeds Can Be Tricky in Eggshells

Seeds from flowers like petunias and snapdragons are so small that spacing them in an eggshell is tough. If you can manage it, it’s doable, but it’s much easier with seed trays that have more space and separation.

 

So… Should You Start Seeds in Eggshells?

Starting seeds in eggshells can be a fun, sustainable option. I used to love doing it when our kids were little. But now? I’ll admit, I skip the hardening-off process and head to the garden center for transplants. No shame in that!

 

Whether you go DIY or buy your seedlings ready to plant, one thing’s for sure, nothing beats the flavor of homegrown produce. Our garden is right next to the chicken run, and the girls would agree… gardening season is our favorite season!

 

Until next time,

 

-The Wing Lady

Keeping Your Coop Warm During Winter

Chickens have been doing just fine surviving winters with humans for many hundreds of years. Long before the invention of electricity, chickens have lived alongside people in the farmyards. We all love our chickens and want to give them the best care, especially during those bitter, cold winter months.

Here are a few ways to prepare your coop for winter. Whether you just want to make a few improvements to an existing coop, or might be planning a new one, these will definitely help keep your flock warm this winter.

  1. Insulate the interior coop walls. While I do not recommend using house insulation, there are many cheap and effective ways to insulate your coop. Stapling old newspaper or cardboard (I have even heard of people reusing empty feed bags), can put a huge dent in the cold that enters the coop. The thicker the walls, the warmer the inside of the coop stays. Many stores give away their cardboard boxes if you ask.
  2. Paint it dark. The darker the color, the more heat it absorbs. The simple trick of painting your coop a dark color will invite more heat from the sun, thus becoming a little warm box for your flock. It doesn’t have to be black, but the darker the better.

 

  1. Add sky lights. This tip isn’t so easily done, but can make a huge difference if you’re willing to put in the work. Adding a few sky lights, or windows on the roof of the coop, allow areas where the sunlight can directly penetrate the floor of the coop. In addition to adding a beautiful light source, I bet your hens will love sunbathing underneath them.
  1. Keep your litter dry. This is an obvious one, but keeping the litter and ground inside the coop dry is imperative. The more moisture that is inside the coop, will actually freeze onto the chickens themselves during cold nights. That is why I have started removing the waterers from inside the coop. Doing this prevents frostbite, but keeping the ice out of the waterers is a different challenge.

Many people also use the deep litter method in their coops. Instead of removing all the spoiled shavings periodically, you just keep adding more material. (layers of shavings, straw, dried leaves, etc). The litter begins to compost inside the coop and produces warmth!  When spring rolls around, you have compost for the garden and can start all over again!

 

  1. Feed a winter diet. Your hens may not be laying much this winter, and that is because they are using their energy to stay warm. You can make life easier on them by feeding a fat and protein rich diet over the winter months. Whole corn, when feed as a snack before bedtime, has long been believed to warm up the bird during digestion. Scratch mixes often contain things like corn, sunflower seeds, barley, oats, and high carb seeds. You can ask your feed store for their best winter scratch mix, and your birds will be fat and happy all winter.

 

  1. Chose your breeds wisely. Although most chickens will on average do fine during winter, there are some who thrive in the cold. I happen to live in Alabama, so our winters are not that bad, however, if you happen to live in a particularly cold climate, here are a few winter hardy breeds:
  • Cochins, Orpingtons, Rhode Island Reds, Australorps, Brahmas, Wyandottes, Jersey Giants, and Faverolles, just to name a few.

With a few adjustments, your flock will be warm and happy this winter. Enjoy this season of rest and recovery. Give your flock a little extra care this winter and they’ll be paying you back ten fold when spring rolls around!

Leaves as Bedding

If you are looking for a FREE way to keep your coop tidy this winter, try using leaves!

Any leaves raked from the yard will do, the only prerequisite is that the leaves be DRY. Rake up your leaves into a pile and let them dry for a few days. After drying, move the leaves into the coop, making the bedding thickness at least about 8” deep. You can use leaves for the deep litter method, or change them out as you clean the coop, either will work with leaves! If you don’t have access to enough leaves,  find some friendly neighbors who’d love to get them off their hands. Store extra bags of leaves in a dry location, and add them to the coop as needed throughout the winter.

Over time, the texture of the leaves will change inside the coop. As the chickens kick up and scratch the leaves, they will begin to crumble. This actually makes the perfect texture for coop flooring. Once the dried leaves have been crunched up for a few weeks, they will become similar to confetti paper. The smaller texture is easier for the chickens to move around in, and will be easier to collect when it’s time to clean.

 

All leaves from your yard should be fine for chickens. They will not eat the leaves, but instead scratch around in them. Leaves raked from the yard hold lots of yummy bugs and treats. Even if you do not use leaves as your bedding, simply giving your cooped hens a bag of leaves will provide enrichment. If they look extra bored, give them a heap of leaves in the run to get them moving. Chickens are very curious and will love hunting for any unlucky bugs in the leaf pile.

Pine needles are also a good option for coop bedding! They will be spiky at first, but just like the leaves, the needles will soon break down and crumble into softer bedding after a week or so. Pine needles also have a wonderful scent that can cover coop odors. We used pine needles in our dog’s bed growing up, and I can still remember the nice smell!

 

When you are ready to clean the coop, the leaves or pine needles will be mulched down and easy to collect with a manure fork. After being “enriched” by your chickens, the old leaf bedding will be ready for your compost pile! The addition of chicken manure actually aids in a quicker decomposition. Therefore, giving you great composted fertilizer that’ll be ready for next year’s garden! Remember to let any compost “sit” for a few months before putting directly onto your garden.

 

Personally, this will be my first year using leaves in the coop and I can’t wait! I usually use pine shavings in my coop, but with prices of everything being so high, I am going to give leaves a try! Let me know if you try leaves this fall too!

Are Chickens Omnivores?

Believe it or not, chickens are one of the most common domesticated animals in the world, providing us with eggs, meat, and incredible pets. People all over the world keep chickens and a question that often arises is whether chickens are omnivores. What are they actually eating when they’re out and about patrolling your backyard?
Chickens eating watermelon

Are Chickens Omnivores?

First, we need to answer what an omnivore is! Omnivore is a fancy word for an organism that eats both plant and animal matter. Omnivores often have flexible diets, allowing them to adapt to various environments and food sources.

If you’ve had chickens for any length of time you will know that they are indeed omnivores. I love to watch my chickens forage for food as they free range in our backyard. They will hunt for insects like beetles, grasshoppers, ants, worms and other creepy crawly things.

In the same spin around the yard, they will munch on grass, dandelions and other plants such as my flowers! That, I don’t love so much. They will also gladly scratch around your garden too if you let them.

Chickens love a variety of “foods” which is funny because they have far less taste buds than us humans. They can tolerate spicy things like red pepper flakes because their taste buds are much less than ours! For little birds that can’t taste very much, they sure like to eat! Haha!

Chickens free ranging

Are Chickens Carnivores?

While chickens are omnivores, you might wonder if they can lean more towards being carnivores. Chickens do enjoy hunting for insects, worms and other small creatures like I said above, but their diet is not limited to just meat. In fact, chickens need a balanced diet to stay healthy. Relying solely on a carnivorous diet would leave them deficient in a lot of important nutrients. Chickens need high-quality chicken feed and occasional treats to ensure they get all the vitamins and minerals required for good health. So, while chickens can and do eat meat, they are not strictly carnivores. They thrive on a diverse diet that includes both animal and plant matter.

Can Chickens Eat Anything?

Chickens are curious creatures with a seemingly insatiable appetite, but can they eat anything? No! While chickens are omnivores, it’s important to know what’s safe and what’s not for your feathered friends.

Safe Treats for Chickens

Chickens can enjoy a wide variety of foods. Fruits like watermelon, berries and apples (without seeds) are healthy and hydrating. Vegetables such as leafy greens, carrots and peas are also great for them. Grains like oats, corn and barley provide essential nutrients and energy. Additionally, insects in your yard like beetles, grasshoppers and worms.

Along with these safe treats, I also like to give my chickens Happy Tract and Golden Graze. These treats are specifically designed to be safe and nutritious, helping to boost their immune systems and improve egg quality. They’re a wonderful supplement to their diet, ensuring my chickens stay healthy and happy, and they can be given daily!

 

Foods to Avoid

However, not all foods are safe for chickens. Avoid feeding them raw potatoes, avocado pits and skins, chocolate and anything moldy or spoiled. These can be toxic and cause serious health issues! Also, steer clear of salty or sugary foods, as these can lead to obesity and other health problems.

 

Moderation is Key

While chickens can eat a variety of foods, moderation is essential. Too many treats can unbalance their diet. A high-quality chicken feed should be their main source of nutrition, supplemented with safe treats to keep them happy and healthy.

What Do Chickens Eat?

Chickens have a varied diet that can include:

  1. Grains: This is a staple in their diet. Chicken feed often contains a mix of corn, wheat, barley and oats.

  2. Vegetables and Fruits: Chickens enjoy leafy greens, carrots, apples (without seeds), berries and melons. These foods provide essential vitamins and minerals.

  3. Insects and Small Creatures: Chickens naturally forage for bugs, worms and small insects. These provide protein and are a natural part of their diet.

  4. Kitchen Scraps: Leftover vegetables, rice, pasta (not coated in sauce or cheese) and bread can be given to chickens, but again, avoid salty, sugary or fatty foods.

  5. Specialty Feeds: High-quality commercial feeds are designed to ensure chickens get a balanced diet. These feeds often include essential nutrients like calcium and proteins to support egg production.

A balanced diet is crucial for chickens to maintain their health, produce quality eggs and lead a happy life. And I can’t stress this enough, always ensure they have access to fresh water and avoid feeding them harmful foods.

 

What I Feed My Chickens

Free-ranging chickens tend to have a more balanced diet made up of what they find naturally free ranging, while chickens kept “cooped up” or caged may require a more carefully planned diet.

 

I always provide my flock with a good high quality feed along with their free range time. My chickens don’t always get to free range either because of predators which is another important reason to have a high quality food. I spotted a coyote mid day last week running through the alfalfa field right behind our house. Yikes!

 

The girls are throwing a fit every time I keep them inside their run, but it’s for their own good right now. In cases like this, keeping high quality chicken food for them is to make sure their cute little bodies are getting all they need to stay healthy. I also always provide access to clean water, as hydration is a vital part of their diet. I always include Chicken E-lixir in my chicken’s water. It’s a daily vitamin for your flock that includes organic oregano oil, prebiotics, vitamins, minerals, calcium and electrolytes to keep your chickens at their best!

 

I love giving my chickens daily treats. Our go-tos are Happy Tract and Golden Graze. While I occasionally share their favorite fruits and veggies like watermelon and zucchini, I have peace of mind knowing that Happy Tract and Golden Graze are safe, nutritious treats that boost their immune systems and improve egg quality!

 

Ultimately, chickens are smart and usually know what they can and cannot eat. They also have their favorites which include both meat and plants! So, the next time you’re chatting with someone and the topic of chicken diets comes up, you’ll be all set to explain that chickens are indeed omnivores. They love variety and are quite the foodies in their own right!

 

Until next time,

-The Wing Lady

Chicken Lice 101: What You Need to Know

Chicken lice may not be the most glamorous topic, but they’re a critical concern for chicken owners everywhere. These pesky pests are becoming more prevalent, especially among free-range flocks and backyard flocks.

Let’s take a closer look at chicken lice, understand why they’re becoming more problematic and uncover effective treatment and prevention strategies, including the role of diatomaceous earth.

Chicken in a nesting box

Why Are Chicken Lice Becoming a Bigger Problem?

Lice aren’t exactly new to the poultry scene, but recent research has highlighted their increasing significance. Historically, lice were not considered major pests for chickens. However, a groundbreaking study by UC Riverside, published in Parasites & Vectors, has changed that perspective.

The study revealed that lice are feeding on the skin and blood of free-range chickens, infecting them at much higher rates than caged flocks. This is particularly relevant in states like California where cage-free egg production is the norm.

The research uncovered unexpected findings, including skin lesions associated with chicken body lice, which had not been documented before.

Signs and Symptoms of Chicken Lice

Recognizing chicken lice early can save you a lot of trouble. Here’s what to watch for:

  • Bald Spots and Feather Loss: One of the most noticeable signs of lice infestation is bald patches or a significant loss of feathers. Lice feed on the skin, which can lead to irritation and feather loss.

  • Excessive Pecking and Itching: Chickens with lice often peck at themselves more than usual and preen excessively as well as exhibit signs of itching or discomfort. This behavior can lead to more feather loss and skin damage.

  • Reduced Egg Production: Lice infestations can stress your chickens, leading to decreased egg production. If you notice a drop in eggs, it might be worth checking for lice.

  • Visible Lice: Sometimes, you may see the lice themselves. They’re small, wingless insects that can be hard to spot without close inspection. They typically live close to the skin and feathers and look similar to sesame seeds.

Lice on a chicken

Picture source: Life and leisure blog – Lice on a chicken

Chicken lice under a microscope

Picture source: Infovet – Chicken lice under a microscope

Preventing Lice on Chickens

Prevention is always better than a cure, and with chicken lice, there are several proactive steps you can take:

  1. Maintain Clean Housing: Regularly clean and disinfect your chickens’ coop and nesting areas. Lice thrive in dirty environments, so keeping things clean can help deter them.

  2. Monitor and Isolate New Birds: If you’re introducing new chickens to your flock, keep them isolated until you’re sure they’re lice-free. This will prevent any potential spread of pests to your existing flock.

  3. Regular Inspections: Frequently check your chickens for signs of lice. Early detection can prevent a small problem from becoming a big issue. Make sure to quarantine birds with lice until they’re gone.

  4. Proper Nutrition: Healthy chickens are better equipped to fend off pests. Ensure your flock is getting a balanced diet to maintain their overall health.

  5. Pest Control: While it’s difficult to completely prevent wild birds, you can reduce rodent presence by sealing gaps, storing food off the ground or in secure containers and keeping the coop area clean. Additionally, remove eggs daily to avoid attracting rodents.

 

Treating Lice on Chickens

Don’t panic if you find lice on your chickens. Chicken lice are host-specific and can’t survive on humans or non-bird domestic pets. They can only feed on one or a few closely related animal species. And luckily, there are several effective treatment options available to help manage the situation and keep your flock healthy.

One of the most common treatments is using permethrin sprays. Permethrin is a widely used insecticide that effectively kills lice on contact. When using permethrin, it’s essential to carefully follow the instructions provided on the product. This ensures that the treatment is applied safely and effectively without causing harm to your chickens. It’s important to cover the entire body of the chicken, paying particular attention to areas where lice and nits (lice eggs) may hide, such as under the wings and around the vent.

For those who prefer a more natural approach, there are alternative remedies like natural dust baths. One popular choice among chicken owners is diatomaceous earth, a fine powder made from the fossilized remains of tiny aquatic organisms.

Diatomaceous earth can be sprinkled in the areas where chickens typically dust bathe like Preen Queen dust bath additive. When chickens roll in the dust, the diatomaceous earth gets into their feathers and onto their skin, helping to remove moisture and kill lice. It’s important to use food-grade diatomaceous earth and to apply it in well-ventilated areas to avoid respiratory issues for both you and your chickens.

 

Myths About Diatomaceous Earth for Chickens

Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a popular natural remedy among poultry keepers, but there are a few myths surrounding its use:

  • It’s Not a Pesticide: DE works by physically damaging the exoskeletons of insects, not through chemical action. It’s not a traditional pesticide, but it can still be effective in controlling lice and mites.

  • It’s Safe in Moderation: When used correctly, DE is safe for chickens. However, excessive use or inhalation of dust can be harmful. Always use it in well-ventilated areas and in moderation. Read the directions carefully on the packaging before using.

  • It’s Not a Cure-All: DE can help control lice, but it’s not a guaranteed solution for severe infestations. It’s best used as part of an integrated pest management strategy. Always consult your veterinarian for serious infestations.

Diatomaceous Earth for Chicken Lice and Mites

As stated above, diatomaceous earth can be a valuable tool in managing chicken lice and mites. Here’s how to use it effectively:

Application Methods

1. Dust Bath Additive:

  • Usage: Mix food-grade diatomaceous earth, such as Preen Queen, into your chickens’ dust bath areas. This allows chickens to coat themselves with the powder, helping eliminate lice and mites on their bodies.

  • Application: Sprinkle a generous amount of Preen Queen containing DE into the dust bath and mix it thoroughly with the soil or sand. This helps the DE reach the chickens’ skin as they bathe, providing a natural way to control parasites.

 

2. Litter Treatment:

  • Usage: Apply DE directly to the bedding and the coop floor to target lice and mites in the chickens’ environment. We recommend using Coop Recuperate. This method helps reduce the risk of re-infestation by addressing the habitat where parasites may live and breed.

  • Application: After cleaning the coop, sprinkle a thin layer of food-grade DE, like Coop Recuperate, across the entire floor and mix it into the bedding material. This will help keep the environment inhospitable for parasites.

 

Frequency of DE

  • Regular Reapplication: Consistently apply DE, especially after cleaning the coop or refreshing the bedding. We recommend applying Coop Recuperate at least two times per week for prevention. Regular use helps maintain control over lice and mite populations, ensuring a healthier environment for your chickens.

 

Bottom line, while chicken lice might seem like a small issue, they can have a significant impact on your flock’s health and productivity! Remember, a clean environment, using DE and regular checks are your best defense against these unwelcome pests!

Best,

-Strong Animals Team

 

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